The Best Hair Advice Is…

 

My hair has a natural kink, but for years I wore it smooth. When the weather was damp, it would expand and look like a bad perm. I would redo it, and it would be fine. As my hair turned grey, however, it became harder to manage.

“Whatever your hair wants to do on the day, go with it,” my trusted hairdresser, Michael Charalambous, told me at my last appointment. I took his advice and have been extremely happy with the results.

Despite battling high humidity over the summer, my hair looked fine. Some days it stayed smooth, with the ends turning slightly under. On other days, it flicked out or fell into waves. When it puffed out, I simply tied it back.

When the front of a jaw-length bob falls flat, it can create a strong horizontal frame around the chin. On a small face, this can make it look more enclosed and severe. Tucking the hair behind the ears removes that frame and opens up the face, creating a softer, more youthful appearance.

When it comes to products, I have found that less is more. In recent years, the beauty industry has created a market around repairing hair. I have found it difficult to find a shampoo and conditioner that are purely moisturising, which is what my grey hair needs.

Hair is dead once it leaves the scalp, so it is impossible to repair it. These treatments can improve the look and feel of the hair, albeit temporarily. What I have found is that many contain ingredients that leave my strands feeling dry and brittle. We are then encouraged to buy even more to mend the hair. Excessive heat from the latest hairdryers, curling irons and straighteners can only add to the damage.

I wash and condition my hair, leaving a little conditioner on the ends to protect them. (My current favourites are Giovanni 2chic Frizz Be Gone Shampoo and Conditioner, £10.99 each from Whole Foods Market.)

Hair does not always need fixing, despite what many companies would have us believe. Sometimes, it just needs to be allowed to do its own thing. Well, perhaps not quite.

I use a hairdryer to smooth it. I dry it forwards for a few minutes to get underneath the back, then dry it in the direction it naturally grows, smoothing it with my hands. I use a round brush at the end if it needs a little extra polish. If I let my hair dry naturally, I look like Albert Einstein’s grandmother.

For autumn, Michael suggests growing my hair a little longer, which means I will not have to tuck it behind my ears all the time. He has given it a slight A-line shape, which adds definition and softens my jawline. It also helps my hair look fuller.

The best hair advice has to be this: embrace your hair and work with what you have, rather than what you wish you had.

By Daralyn Danns

For inspiration, visit nyumbasalon.com or follow on instagram.com/nyumbasalon 

The best hair tools are…

Everybody’s hair is different. What works for one person may not work for another. It is important to get to know your hair and work with its texture, density, how it grows and the way it behaves in different weather conditions.

As you age, your hair changes. When you go grey, you may have to rethink your haircare regime and opt for products that are more moisturising. You could potentially have to opt for a different style.

Whatever stage your hair is at, it is important to keep it in good condition. Using the right tools is paramount.

Hair supremo Michael Charalambous says he sees a lot of damage from some of the newer hairdryers on the market. “They can get extremely hot. The airflow can be intensive, which means that they can be too aggressive, especially if your strands are fragile,” he says. “The overuse of styling attachments can also cause harm.”

Michael says he would not use any other dryer than Parlux. “They are durable and they give good results,” he says.

When choosing a hairdryer, do not judge it on the marketing hype. Decide what wattage you want. The thicker your hair, the higher wattage it can tolerate. Fine hair, on the other hand, needs a lower wattage. You also want a choice of speed and heat settings. Ionic technology can help reduce frizz, while ceramic or tourmaline technology is reputed to distribute heat evenly. 

You also want a choice of nozzles. Weight and size are important, as is the length of the cord. If you are not sure which one to get, ask your hairdresser for advice.

As for styling, Michael says hands are your best tools, as there is minimal damage. “A good hairbrush is a rare find,” he points out. “So many can ruin strands, especially if they are delicate. Hands can smooth as well as create tension and volume. They will also let you know if your dryer is getting too hot.”

Michael says you can also use your hands to curl your hair, so you get the done-but-undone look. “Work in a clockwise direction,” he says.

Over the summer, I put away my brushes and only used my hands for styling, although I did use my dryer. Michael says my hair is in good condition.

What is imperative is a good cut. It will do most of the work for you. Everybody needs a Michael. A good hairdresser who really knows your hair is the key to a good hair day, whatever tools you use.

By Daralyn Danns

For inspiration, visit nyumbasalon.com or follow on instagram.com/nyumbasalon 

To air-dry or not to air-dry?

Some people air-dry their hair into perfect waves. Others, like me, end up looking as though Albert Einstein’s grandmother has unsuccessfully tried to recreate one of his experiments.

“Always dry your hair with a dryer,” says my hairdresser, Michael Charalambous. “If you want movement, smooth it first, then put it back in. Just twist a few random strands.”

Summer hair is tricky. I want a bob with natural body and slight movement, but one that still looks polished rather than fluffy or triangular. In other words: controlled volume.

Michael says I should keep a middle parting as it emphasises my cheekbones and distributes my hair more evenly. It also highlights the different tones of grey and silver.

In humidity, my hair puffs up as moisture lifts the cuticle. I also have a lot of baby hairs around the fringe. As there is nothing to hold them down, everything expands and becomes much fuller.

I have lost count of how many hairdressers have suggested layers. I leave quicker than I can say my name. I need weight. Layers remove it, which is what keeps fine, fluffy hair under control. Without it, you get the eccentric-scientist effect.They also expose more ends, making strands frizzier.

Michael understands my hair. It is worth finding someone who really gets what your hair can and cannot do.

His humidity trick is simple. Skip conditioner in the shower. Towel-dry your hair, then emulsify a pea-sized amount of conditioner in your hands and apply it to the ends before blow-drying. This smooths the most porous areas without softening the roots, fringe or mid-lengths, the sections that define the overall look. It helps hair stay smooth and prevents it from expanding in damp air.

Conditioner used in the shower can encourage grey hair to clump together into its natural wave or kink pattern. For those with fine, grey hair, it can leave the strands feeling too soft and slippery while accentuating their natural texture. When that happens, the strands can lose structure more quickly and become harder to control, making blow-drying more challenging.

It is a small but ingenious trick. On humid days, it can mean the difference between control and lift-off.

By Daralyn Danns

For inspiration, visit nyumbasalon.com or follow on instagram.com/nyumbasalon 

The benefits of a shorter bob with a centre parting

The bob has always been my favourite hairstyle. Recently, thanks to my trusted hairdresser, Michael Charalambous, I am learning to appreciate the shorter, jaw-length version.

This cut makes a dramatic statement. It frames the face beautifully, highlights the bone structure, and feels far edgier than my old chin-length bob.

To elevate the look, Michael suggested a return to a centre parting. “A centre parting is more forgiving with grey hair as it keeps both sides balanced. It also works better with the way your fringe is growing,” he explains.

This time, my baby hairs were growing downward, pushing the front section forward and resisting being swept to the side. “When they begin to grow sideways, we may have to adjust the parting again,” he adds.

Luckily, I have a sqoval face shape, a combination of square and oval, which means I can wear either a side or centre parting. What I have noticed is how different they are.

A centre parting creates symmetry and draws attention to the eyes and cheekbones. It looks sharper and makes more of a statement. 

The side parting creates volume on one side, which can make the face appear wider. In humid weather, it can also cause uneven weight distribution, leaving one side puffier than the other. It often means battling stubborn baby hairs that refuse to fall into place.

The combination of a jaw-length bob and a blunt fringe creates strong, graphic lines. A centre parting balances the overall look. With my natural kink, it also prevents one side from behaving unpredictably.

On grey hair, which already has plenty of movement, a side parting can feel excessive against a  strong shape.

I never thought I would like short hair as much as I do. It may not be suitable for everyone, so always have a consultation with your stylist before going for the chop.

As hair turns grey, the texture changes. It becomes drier and coarser. When worn long, this can make the ends look thinner and frizzier, which can be ageing.

Long grey hair can look beautiful, but only when it is in excellent condition. A shorter cut can make hair appear thicker and give the face more definition.

The key is choosing a cut that works with your natural texture. Make sure your stylist understands how your hair behaves so they can advise you properly.

Thank you, Michael, for taking me shorter. As always, you were right.

By Daralyn Danns

For inspiration, visit nyumbasalon.com or follow on instagram.com/nyumbasalon 

How to look younger instantly

The bob is the cut of the moment. It might also be the quickest way to look younger.  From highly-polished and sleek to textured and sliced, there are countless versions.

According to acclaimed hairdresser Michael Charalambous, the right style for your face shape and hair texture can instantly make you look younger.

“When a bob is cut well, it frames the face, adds volume and makes hair look thicker. As well as drawing the eye upwards, emphasising cheekbones and defining the jawline, it can also soften fine lines,” says Michael. “Long hair can drag the features down, a short cut makes you look rejuvenated. It may even work better than Botox and fillers.”

Michael points out that too much filler and Botox can lead to puffiness that looks unnatural. While these treatments are intended to create a more youthful appearance, overdoing them can sometimes have the opposite effect.

“As we age, our faces naturally lose volume,” he explains. “Many people try to compensate by using more filler and Botox, but this can alter the face’s natural proportions and make it appear distorted. Instead of creating a fresher, younger look, excessive treatments can actually make someone appear older.”

He also says you can have the most amazing haircut but if what you are wearing does not complement it, you may still look older. 

“Pay a nod to a trend and incorporate it into your overall style,” Michael advises. “It is also important to update your make-up as well. Less is more.”

Before taking the plunge with a bob, make sure your stylist sees your hair in its natural state. This cut demands precision and any mistakes will show – especially when you're blow-drying at home. Whichever bob you choose it has to be personalised to you.

Michael looked at my bob which was past my chin. “We are going jaw-length with a side fringe. A shorter blunt cut makes fine hair look thicker. Tucking one side behind the ear will give it a modern vibe,” he adds.

My friends say it looks both classy and edgy. Looking younger instantly might be as simple as booking a hair appointment. 

By Daralyn Danns

For inspiration, visit nyumbasalon.com or follow on instagram.com/nyumbasalon