A quirky mix of ancient and modern, Vilnius is wonderfully
beguiling. The almost perfect picture-postcard medieval old town, the largest
in central and Eastern Europe, is the jewel in the crown. It's Gothic, Baroque
and Renaissance meets contemporary high-end fashion.
After renting the audio guide from the Vilnius Tourist
Information Centre (Vilniaus Street 22 and Didžioji Street 31) I began my tour
of the Lithuanian capital at the 16th-century Gates of Dawn, the only remaining
gate from 10 that once studded the old city walls. It is now one of the main
landmarks of Vilnius. Inside is a chapel, a sacred place for Catholics.
From there it was on to Pilies Street, the old town's most
vibrant thoroughfare where lively cafés, sophisticated boutiques, and market
stalls are peppered amongst its old colourful buildings. If you feel like some
retail therapy, Baltic amber is the customary souvenir.
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| Aerial view of Vilnius |
It was almost a relief as I wandered round, to see a few
imperfections: cracks in the pavements and buildings undergoing renovation.
Among the graffiti, which, surprisingly, added to the ambience, were courtyards
concealing the remains of ancient houses that were once home to the gentry.
The Church of St Anne, a stunning piece of Gothic
architecture is well worth a visit. Legend has it that Napoleon Bonaparte
thought the church so beautiful he wanted to take it back to Paris in the palm
of his hand.
For superb views of historic buildings fusing with
21st-century skyscrapers, on the other side of the river Neris, head to the
observation deck on the top of Gediminas Tower.
It is a good job that Vilnius is a great city for walking as
it is all too easy to pile on the pounds here. The Lithuanians like their
potatoes. Every dish seems to be served with them. The national dish is potato
pancakes. Another speciality is cold beet soup. The black
bread is addictive.
One of the city’s most moving museums is the Museum of Genocide Victims (open Wednesday
to Saturday ) in the former headquarters of the KGB. It has been kept as
it was in Soviet times. So as you walk through the cells you get a real sense
of the prisoners' appalling living conditions. The padded cell is enough to
send shivers up your spine.
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| Vilnius as seen from Gediminas Tower |
After ticking off most of the tourist hot spots, it was time
to do the scenic stuff. Užupis is Vilnius's answer to Montmartre in
Paris. The area, neglected by the Soviets, has become home to artists and
creatives. Užupis has its own constitution and president. There is a lovely
sculpture of a mermaid that sits on the embankment of the Vilnia. It's an
idyllic place to spend a Sunday morning.
No trip to Vilnius would be complete without visiting Trakai
(about 17miles outside the city).
Surrounded by three lakes, this pretty town is a favourite of both locals and
tourists. The castle, which is on an island, is the town's main attraction. In
the 1990s, it was rebuilt from the medieval ruins. The red bricks piled
on top of the old stones resemble something out of Legoland. Despite that,
there is something magical about the place.
Over the centuries the people of Lithuania have been
tortured and oppressed by various regimes including the Russians, Nazis and
Poles. All of which have influenced the culture. The Jews, too, have left their
mark on the city. Vilnius, (or Vilna, in Yiddish) was once called the Jerusalem
of Lithuania.
It was only in 1990 that the independent State of Lithuania
was re-established and not until 1991 recognised by the USSR. Laura, a young
Lithuanian woman told me how she would never forget 23 August 1989 and the
so-called Baltic Road. In defiance of Russian rule, two million people from
Estonia, Lithuania and Latvia, formed a human chain along roads between Tallin,
Riga and Vilnius. "We all sang and held hands. It was a wonderful feeling
of unity," she said.
In Cathedral Square, home to the monument of Gediminas, the
Lithuanian Grand Duke who founded the city in the early 14th century, you may
see people twirling round in a clockwise
direction. This is because they have found the miracle tile and hope to be
granted a wish. It’s the place, Laura told me, where the human chain ended.
For Lithuanians, in this country where you can almost taste
the optimism that fills the air, their hopes and desires came to fruition.
Approximately a decade later, this former Soviet Republic became a member
of Nato. On 1 July, Lithuania gets ready to assume the Presidency of the
Council of the EU. Miracles do happen when you are strong and brave.
By Daralyn Danns
Getting there
Wiz (wizzair.com)
Staying: The Narutis Hotel, restored 16th-century Lithuanian
luxury hotel (narutis.com)
For further information on Lithuania visit www.lietuva.lt
