A wild rocky coastline, mountains peppered with trees that
disappear into a hazy mist, lush valleys, white houses with red roofs wedged
into the hillsides, gardens ablaze with flowers in a riot of colour and the
ancient Laurissilva Forest, the tiny subtropical island of Madeira has scenery
that would impress even the hardest of
hearts.
Madeira, discovered in 1419 by Portuguese explorers, is 57km
(35 miles) long and 22km (14 miles) wide. It is the main island of the
Portuguese archipelago that juts out from the Atlantic Ocean off the coast of
Africa.
Once regarded as the destination of choice for British
seniors, it has reinvented itself as the go-to spot for a younger,
sophisticated traveller. And it is easy to see why they have been beguiled by
this island that radiates calm and comfort. From the moment I arrived, I felt
every ounce of stress I had imported from London being squeezed out of my body.
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| All rights reserved by Madeira Islands Tourism |
There is no chance of being bored here. Madeira has all the
key ingredients to make the perfect holiday. From lazing by the pool, to jeep
safaris, to paragliding and mountain climbing, Madeira has plenty to help you
recharge your batteries. You will also find some great spas to slip off to for
a massage and, of course, you can’t leave without trying Madeira wine. It is
almost compulsory to visit Blandy’s Wine Lodge for a tour and tasting.
Just don’t expect sandy beaches. Due to ancient volcanic
activity, the beaches, except for the man-made ones, are mostly pebble-dashed
and black sand.
A highlight of a trip to Madeira Island is a levada walk.
These trails besides centuries-old irrigation canals, will take you through a
spectacular landscape interspersed with waterfalls and dotted with orchids and
other tropical plants.
The best way to see Funchal, the capital is to take the
cable car. As we made our way to Monte, Funchal Bay disappeared as we left the
sun behind and headed straight into the clouds. This was my first experience of
one of the islands myriad of microclimates.
You have to come down from Monte in a “wicker sledge” These baskets resemble go-karts. Two drivers (carreiros) wearing boots with thick rubber soles that they use as breaks, run alongside as you whisk down the sloping narrow winding streets.
You have to come down from Monte in a “wicker sledge” These baskets resemble go-karts. Two drivers (carreiros) wearing boots with thick rubber soles that they use as breaks, run alongside as you whisk down the sloping narrow winding streets.
These guys step on to the toboggan when needs be to keep it
balanced. Maybe not for the faint-hearted, especially, if like when I did it,
the heavens had opened. A few mutterings of “Santa Maria” from the
drivers did cause my companion and I to exchange worrying looks. The ride certainly got the adrenalin flowing.
It is the stuff memories are made of.
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| Reid's Palace © Orient-Express Hotels Ltd |
While hip boutique hotels such as the award-winning Vine
Hotel (the food is delicious) are winning over the style mavens, old Madeira
still flourishes, especially at Reid's Palace, Madeira’s grande-dame hotel.
Afternoon tea at on the veranda overlooking tropical gardens and the ocean is
something of an institution on the island.
Reid’s has been host to the great and the good for years, attracting the likes of Empress
Elizabeth 1 of Austria, George Bernard Shaw and Winston Churchill, who after he
took up his paintbrushes in Madeira enticed other Brits to experience the
island’s “ therapeutic benefits”.
The archipelago has been attracting international travellers
for centuries including Christopher Columbus who married a Maderian girl as
well as Brazilian empresses and British royalty. Fans of the footballer
Cristiano Ronaldo will know he was born here.
If you want a glimpse into the past, you can also stay at
one of the Quintas of Madeira. Former country house estates of princes and
nobles, these properties have different architectural styles ranging from
contemporary to rustic.
My base was the five-star Quintinha São João Hotel, set in
serene gardens. It felt like staying in a friend’s old manor. It melds private
home intimacy and modern intrusions perfectly.
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| Mountains of Madeira |
Eating in Madeira is a real treat for your taste buds.
Everything is so fresh and bursting with flavour as most of the fruit and
vegetables are grown locally. All the cultures that have passed through the
islands over the centuries have left their mark on its cuisine. Seafood is big
and you will be spoilt for choice for venues.
The Vila do Peixe is a traditional restaurant that dishes up great views as well some succulent fish. Riso has an imaginative take on risotto which you can enjoy while listening to the waves crash against the cliffs. The Restaurante Do Forte, in the XVII century São Tiago fortress, reputed to be one of Funchal’s finest, has plenty of dishes to entice you.
It was Friday night and the old town was pulsating with energy. The young and young at heart spilled out on to the pavements, reminiscent of London’s Soho on a summer’s night.
Before returning to the hotel, we decided to take a
walk on Madeira’s wilder side. We headed to Venda Velha, a bar near the fort,
for a Poncha, a traditional alcoholic drink made from sugar cane rum, honey,
lemon and Madeira wine. Which I have to say is just like Madeira itself,
rather moreish.
By Daralyn Danns
Getting there
TAP Portugal has a daily flight from London Heathrow to
Madeira.Prices start at £169 return including all taxes. For further
information, visit www.flytap.com or call 0845 601 0932
Quintinha São João Hotel, Rua da Levada de São João, 4,
Madeira, 9000-191 Funchal is on the outskirts of the city centre of Funchal
(1.5km), in a lovely residential area. Rooms from €96 per night. For more info
visit www.quintinhasaojoao.com
To learn more about Madeira visit www.visitportugal.com and
www.visitmadeira.pt
