A heady mix of the majestic and romantic tinged with edgy
grittiness, Budapest beguiled me from the moment that I first stood on the
banks of the Danube and saw it for the first time.
Created in
1873, when the towns of Buda and Pest, together with Óbuda united, it is no
wonder that the 140-year-old capital city of Hungary has a dual
personality. Separated by the not actually blue Danube, hilly Buda and flat
Pest are connected by bridges, the oldest being the renowned Chain Bridge.
Budapest has had a troubled history. "Rich in revolutions," said my guide. But today this once Eastern Bloc impoverished city has metamorphosed itself with the trappings of international luxury. But while much has changed, there are plenty of reminders of bygone days including centuries-old buildings and elegant architecture as well as stark remnants from the communist era.
Budapest has had a troubled history. "Rich in revolutions," said my guide. But today this once Eastern Bloc impoverished city has metamorphosed itself with the trappings of international luxury. But while much has changed, there are plenty of reminders of bygone days including centuries-old buildings and elegant architecture as well as stark remnants from the communist era.
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| The Chain Bridge Courtesy of
Hungarian Tourism
|
On the Buda side I did the touristy bit and wandered round the restored medieval Castle District where the Royal Palace, the Matthias Church and the Fishermen's Bastion are situated. After my dose of history – I had visited the Budapest History Museum and the Hungarian National Gallery, two of the museums found at the palace – I headed up to Gellért Hill to be rewarded with some beautiful views across the river.
Back in Pest, I passed the impressive riverside Parliament and on to the beautiful St Stephen's Basilica and a stroll along Andrássy Avenue. This magnificent tree-lined boulevard which leads up to Heroes’ Square is arguably the most beautiful part of the Pest side, and reminded me of both Paris and Vienna.
The House of Terror, also on this avenue, was once the
headquarters of the Secret Police. The museum serves as a reminder of what life
was like for the people of Hungary from the Second World War to the end of
communism. A visit to the basement to see where political prisoners were locked
away is particularly chilling.
I nipped into the Opera House to see its amazing interior
before making my way to the Great Synagogue, one of the largest in the world
and which has a rather oriental flavour to it. Also in the same building
is the Jewish Museum.
After soaking up the culture, it was time to participate in a real drenching. Budapest is not known as the City of Baths for nothing. Although the thermal baths date back to Roman times, it was the Turks in the 16th and 17th centuries that established the bathing culture.
I visited the Gellért, a traditional spa hotel popular with tourists and Hungarians. It is worth visiting just to see the Art Noveau building.
After soaking up the culture, it was time to participate in a real drenching. Budapest is not known as the City of Baths for nothing. Although the thermal baths date back to Roman times, it was the Turks in the 16th and 17th centuries that established the bathing culture.
I visited the Gellért, a traditional spa hotel popular with tourists and Hungarians. It is worth visiting just to see the Art Noveau building.
Forget what you have heard about the reputation of Eastern
European food and wine It is not all goulash and potatoes in Budapest,
you will find plenty of great restaurants for a culinary treat.
Hungarians also love coffee houses and cakes. I had the most
scrumptious raspberry tart at the legendary Cafè Gerbeaud. If you are looking
for something a little different, pop into one of the hip “ruin bars” found in
abandoned buildings decked out with vintage furniture found in mainly what was once the Jewish quarter and now named the Seventh District.
Budapest is at its most magical at night when it is all lit
up. It is almost like a fairytale city that
has been lifted from the pages of a book.
Exotic and intoxicating, I loved every second of my weekend
break in this great place.
By Daralyn Danns
Getting there
easyJet has flights from Gatwick and Luton, prices
from £37.74 one-way. For more info and booking visit www.easyjet.com
This airline offers great value for money and the staff is pleasant and courteous. I can honestly say every time I have flown with this airline I have always had a good experience. Remember check-in is online.
This airline offers great value for money and the staff is pleasant and courteous. I can honestly say every time I have flown with this airline I have always had a good experience. Remember check-in is online.
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| Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace |
I stayed at Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest. Rates start at £256.89 (incl. VAT) per room per night. For more info visit www.fourseasons.com/budapest
Exquisite! Right next to the Chain Bridge, this Art Noveau palace has been lovingly restored by the Four Seasons. Service is excellent. But then would you expect anything else from what is arguably the best hotel in the country?
