Friday 17 February 2017

Destination Muscat, The Sultanate of Oman


This is not a paid post.


Drenched in history and traditions that go back at least 5,000 years, Oman, or The Sultanate of Oman as it is officially called, hums gently to the tune of the 21st century. 



Muscat
Courtesy of
Oman Tourism



Muscat, the capital, is as far removed from the glitz and glamour of Dubai as you can imagine. Overlooking the sea, sheltered by rocky cliffs, it charms you with its desert beauty, ancient forts and stories deeply rooted in its past.

There are none of the tallest structures on the planet here. Most of Muscat's new buildings are low-rise (the Sultan does not appear to be fond of skyscrapers) and whitewashed as is the long-established custom. 



Al-Alam Palace


Sauntering along the spotless pavements, taking in views of ancient forts that loom over the harbour and accompanied by the distant wails from the minarets calling prayer time, I entered through the gates of the old-walled city and arrived at the Al-Alam Palace. 

Nestled in the heart of old Muscat, this gold and blue spectacular royal residence is where the Sultan entertains foreign visitors and royalty. You cannot go in but even those whose interests do not usually span to architecture will be impressed with this extravagant modern Islamic design. Also nearby are some impressive government buildings. Another noteworthy stop on a tour of the city is the splendid Royal Opera House which resembles a fort.



The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
Courtesy of
Oman Tourism



The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque has to be one Muscat’s most exquisite jewels. A gift to the nation from the Sultan to mark the 30th anniversary of his reign, it cleverly melds artistic ideas from different Islamic eras and regions. It is worth poking your head inside to see the Persian carpet and the Swarovski crystal chandelier. 

Muscat has its fair share of museums but if time it tight then the Bait Al Zubair is the one to visit. Once a house, it showcases artefacts from Oman’s past and present all collected by the Zubair family who own the museum. The women’s clothing and jewellery are the highlights.

Wandering around, even as a woman, you feel incredibly safe in Muscat. According to my tour guide, only four crimes were reported in 2015. So you can easily experience Muscat life.

Stroll along the corniche which runs along the picture-perfect sea front. Flanked by 18th-century buildings and the imposing Mutrah Fort, built by the Portuguese hundreds of years ago to guard the harbour, the Mutrah area feels as if time has stood still.

The souk here, one of the oldest in the country, is heaving with locals traditionally dressed as well as tourists savouring the frankincense wafting through the air. I was with a bunch of German tourists who had kindly given me a lift from old Muscat. They fondly called me the “Brexit lady”. But, one thing for sure, we were all one when it came to getting good deals with the vendors. From bread to Arabian perfumes and gold, you will find stalls and shops bordering the labyrinth of the narrow alleyways selling almost everything.

When you think of the desert you conjure up images of a Bedouin lifestyle and authentic customs. For an Arabian adventure, spend a night under the stars in the Empty Quarter. Said to be the biggest desert in the Arabian Peninsula, there is not even an oasis here. 



Mum and kids walking along the pavement



For unspoilt beaches, rugged mountains and steep wadis, go to Khasab, capital of Musandarn province. Approximately 310 miles from Muscat, this region is often called Arabia’s Norway because it has so many fjords. The harbour filled with dhows and small fishing boats as well as smugglers’ vessels heading for Iran is a far cry from Monte Carlo.

I was spellbound as I stood outside a school watching a mother chastise her two kids for playing in the road when they were meant to be crossing it. She led them safely to the pavement and kept a watchful eye on them to make sure that they were obediently following her. What was special about this story is that the mother was a goat.

It is heart-warming sights like these, being entranced by an exhilarating landscape while being able to peel back the centuries yet still enjoy modern day luxuries, that encapsulate the draw of Oman and its capital Muscat.

By Daralyn Danns



Getting there

Oman Air has direct flights from London Heathrow to Muscat International Airport. For more best fares and more information visit omanair.com

Stay at the Al Bustan Palace. For best rates and more information visit ritzcarlton.com