The perfect rural retreat and a wine lover’s paradise, the
world is fast discovering what the Romans and other past civilisations have
enjoyed over the centuries, the rich and varied grapes that are grown in
Alentejo.
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| M`AR De AR Aqueduto |
Culture, cuisine and cork are often associated with Alentejo
but Portugal’s agricultural heartland and least populated region has put itself
firmly on the map as a major wine producer. It has gained quite a reputation
for its soft velvety, rich fruity reds. The whites too which tend to be fragrant,
fresh and well-balanced, are now getting their fair share of attention.
Evidence indicates that wine making was an integral part of
everyday life in the Alentejo
long before the Romans arrived. Their
expertise helped winemaking evolve and become a linchpin of life here.
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| Cartuxa |
When the Moors invaded the Iberian Peninsula at the
beginning of the 8th century their
Muslim influence saw the bond between wine and the Alentejo gradually weaken.
Over the years the wine industry has had a stormy ride but it is now firmly
back on track.
Alentejo's hot
summers and cool winters produce grapes which ooze flavour. In turn they
help to create lush, complex wines. As well as a wide variety of indigenous grapes which give the wines character and
individuality, the region has introduced in recent years, many non-indigenous
types such as syrah and cabernet sauvignon – which you will often find in
blends.
Alicante bouschet, aragonez, trincadeira and touriga
nacional are some of the most popular red varieties used in Alentejo.
Antão vaz, arrinto, fernão pires, roupeiro and gouveio are
beloved for whites.
There are eight different sub-regions but often you will see
the more widely-known Alentejo on the label.
To get a better understanding of how wines are made and the
different types of grapes used, I headed to Cartuxa, one of the oldest wineries
in the Alentjeo region. Run by the local charitable foundation,
Eugenio De
Almeida, this once former Jesuit house has now moved slap bang into the 21st
century. Although, I imagine, the surrounding countryside continues at its own pace as it must have done since
time immemorial.
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| Cartuxa |
Here I got to grips with the aromas of different grapes and tasted some rather exciting
numbers. (It also produces good olive oils.)
My favourite is the
Cartuxa Red 2012. This blend of
aragonez, alicante bouschet, alfrocheiro and trincadeira is a silky creation
that goes down a treat. A good tip given by Gabriela Fialho who was
conducting my tasting is to serve red wines around 16C to 18C. As for whites,
the younger the wine, the colder it should be served.
The EA White 2014 was a refreshingly, fruity well-balanced
wine that would be perfect for a hot summer’s day.
Tucked in amongst buildings of Évora’s historical centre is
the Alentejo Wine Route Tasting Room. As well as learning more about the
terroirs and grapes, I tasted some of the region’s finest. This is a good place
to go to get a good introduction to what Alentejo has to offer.
But, it is not just reds and whites that Alentejo excel at,
I discovered a couple of good rosés on the menu at the lovely 5-star Mar d’AR
Aqueduto hotel. Normally not a lover of
sparkling wine, unless it is a good champagne, I was pleasantly
surprised to stumble across a local wine on the list at Divinus, the superb
restaurant at the Convento do Espinheiro, which was a good accompaniment
to the scallops that I had.
The wines from Alentejo are not only excellent quality but
are really good value. You can pick up a good wine from around 5 euros.
Alentejo is the idyllic place to go to escape the rat race
and indulge in fine wines and good, wholesome food. Unfortunately, my stay was
over all too soon and I had to go back to the treadmill but I will be drinking
in the Alentejo at home.
By Daralyn Danns
Getting there
TAP Portugal flies from London Heathrow, Gatwick and
Manchester to Lisbon up to 9 times a day, prices start at £124 return including
all taxes and surcharges. For further information, visit www.flytap.com or call 0345 601 0932
I stayed in Évora at the impressive five star M`AR De AR Aqueduto,
housed in the 16th-century Sepulveda Palace. For more
information visit www.mardearhotels.com
Another wonderful hotel is the Convento do Espinheiro. Slightly further out of the city, this is
a great place if you want a combination of culture, cuisine and relaxation. For
more information visit www.conventodoespinheiro.com
For more information about Cartuxa visit www.cartuxa.pt
For more information about Alentejo visit www.visitalentejo.pt/en/
