Haircare – what you really need to know

A bad hair day can make us feel miserable and have an effect on our mood all day. We spend a fortune on products and potions promising us thicker, smoother, shinier locks. 

I watched a programme on TV the other week about haircare which left me with more questions than it gave answers. I caught up with hair supremo Paul Windle whose award-winning salon Windle & Moodie attracts people from all walks of life and all ages.

Courtesy of Windle & Moodie

Not only does Windle & Moodie specialise in editorial photoshoots, it also has its own range of styling tools and a product line. 

So, who better to get answers from than Paul – after all he has had over 30 years’ experience in dealing with hair.

If you really want to see what effect styling tools have, especially if you are addicted to straighteners, Paul suggests drying your hair naturally and taking a picture. “Use your straighteners every day for a month and take another one and compare the difference,” he says.

Courtesy of Windle & Moodie

Straighteners, especially if you are consistently using them at high temperatures, can actually make hair frizzier and drier in the long run. “Think of a branch of a tree,” says Paul. “When it is green and full of moisture it will not break when you touch it. If it is brown and dry when somebody comes along and applies pressure it will break.” 

If you want to use straighteners, Paul advises starting out with the lowest temperature you can and only edge it up if need be. You do not want to keep going over the same section. Reportedly, you should use a temperature below 180C as any heat over that can cause damage. Also use a heat protector and make sure that your hair is bone dry before use. Bear in mind, if you are ironing your hair every day, you can still end up with frazzled tresses, particularly if you have coloured hair and or/fine hair.

A lot of buzzwords are marketing hype he cautions. For example ionic. Among the claims are: dries hair faster, reduces frizz and static and boosts shine. 

Your hair has negative and positively charged ions. Wet hair is positive. The technology works by using negatively charged ions, which are created by passing air over an electric current. The negative ion makes the water molecules divide into smaller ones which evaporate quicker so you dry your hair faster. But, Paul says the difference between using a dryer with ionic technology and one without is marginal. 

He should know. He did plenty of research when he bought out his own range. So, if you are not somebody who blasts their locks on high temperatures and speeds, you may not notice any difference.

Kent Pebble

When it comes to products, Paul says some ingredients can be there simply for marketing purposes. “For example, you may see a shampoo contains antioxidants. It is hard to know how much needs to be in the formula to have any effect. The only way you are going to know if it works is to try it on your hair,” he advises. “Also just because clinical studies have been carried out on an ingredient, it may not be relevant as these tests are often carried out in specified conditions not when a product is actually used.” 

For best results, always buy the right shampoo and conditioner for your hair type. Do not expect miracles. No shampoo or conditioner will change the texture of your hair. You get frizz due to how the hair follicle is arranged and that you can put down to genetics. Humidity will only exacerbate it.

Is it worth paying more for salon products? Paul says that as everybody’s hair is different, you will only know what works for you by trial and error.

You should wash your hair as often as you feel that it is necessary. If your hair is extremely dry, it will last longer between shampoos than if it were greasy. One good wash should be sufficient to get it clean. Too frequent washing can cause your hair colour to fade quicker which is not what you want after spending a fortune to get it done. 

Avoid wearing your hair in a tight ponytail or in an updo regularly as it can may result in bald patches. Brushing too much can also lead to problems. “Run a brush along the back of your hand, if it scratches it could damage your hair,” says Paul.

Plastic bristles tend to be blunter and smoother than natural bristles. Try a brush such as Kent 9 row, rubber pad, nylon quill, anti-static hair brush (£8.25, stockists: kentbrushes.com) for regular use. The recently-launched Pebble (£7), is ideal for getting rid of tangles and can be used on wet or dry hair as it is so gentle. 

Hair is dead once it leaves the scalp so treat it like a delicate fabric. Paul suggests always conditioning it to keep it soft and subtle. Try a good cream such as Windle & Moodie Invisible Day and Night Cream (£21, windleandmoodie.com) which will moisturise your locks and leave them with a lovely shine.

Go into haircare and styling with your eyes open,” says Paul. “You may not mind if your hair is slightly drier if you are happy with the style.”

By Daralyn Danns

Colour mistakes that could age you

It does not matter what lotions and potions you put on your face to make those lines vanish, you could be making yourself look years older by not having the right hair colour.

Skin tone changes as we age. It will also vary from season to season, so if you are colouring your hair you need to ensure that your hue flatters your complexion. If it does not, you could be making yourself appear older than you are. The right tone and shade can instantly whisk away the years better than any beauty product can.

Courtesy of Windle & Moodie

“Grey hair is ageing,” says colourist Clara Ingesson at the highly-acclaimed Windle & Moodie in London’s Covent Garden. “Equally is going too dark which will emphasis lines and wrinkles. Also, whether you are blonde or brunette, you should not go too ashy. Going too light will make you look washed out and pile on the years.”

Often you hear colourists tell you as you age, if you are brunette you should go a shade or two lighter than your natural colour. If you are blonde, then you may need to go slighter darker.

“Forget rules,” says Clara. “Everybody is different. You need a colour that works for you.”

She does, however, stress that there are some guidelines. “You should not have a solid colour throughout. The ends need to be slightly lighter,” she advises. “You also need to have different tones running through your hair to stop it looking like you are wearing a wig.”

You need a colour that works for you

According to Clara, home colouring can cause a lot of problems. “People tend to take the colour through each time rather than only doing the roots. If your hair is porous, the colourant will grab the hair giving you a build-up making it darker and darker”, she says. 

Another no-no is brassy hair. Orangey-red undertones usually are not complimentary. You should also avoid having too many highlights. “A few are fine but when you overdo it, they make the hair look dry and damaged. Healthy hair has a shine to it,” adds Clara. A product such as Windle & Moodie Light Shine (£22, windleandmoodie.com) is great for adding a gloss to the hair without weighing it down.

If you are changing your hair colour, remember to take your eyebrows into consideration. When any white hairs appear, colour them with powder or a pencil.

“As you change your make-up every season, you may also have to tweak your hair,” advises Clara. 

By Daralyn Danns

How to cope with your hair when humidity strikes

Muggy weather not only makes us feel hot and bothered, it also creates havoc with your hair. Be it fine and fluffy, thick and curly, if it has any natural texture it can instantly become a ball of frizz when humidity strikes.

I asked Mia Efthymiou, stylist and head of product development at the highly-regarded London hair salon, Windle & Moodie for her tips. 

Mia has worked backstage for many of the UK’s top designers including Julian MacDonald, Margaret Howell and Hussein Chalayan so she should know a thing or two about coping with the dreaded frizz.

Courtesy of Windle & Moodie

What causes hair to frizz?

Mia: Partly genetic, partly environment. When it is humid or damp moisture can enter the cuticles making your hair expand and revert to its natural state. Remember hair is not all one length which will compound the problem.

The condition will also play an important factor. If hair is damaged through over-processing such as colouring too often or simply using heated appliances too frequently, it will be more prone to moisture penetrating it. This will, in turn, lift up the cuticle so your locks will be rough instead of smooth. Broken strands will also stick out and look frizzy. 

Windle & Moodie Invisible day & night cream 

What can you do to prevent it from puffing up?

Mia: A good haircut is imperative to overall shape and style.

You can prevent puffing by using the right products. Use a good nourishing shampoo and conditioner that will inject moisture and shine into the hair. 

Try a product such as Windle & Moodie Invisible day & night cream (£18.50) on wet hair to moisturise and condition. Then, prep the hair with a detangling spray. I recommend Windle & Moodie Foundation spray (£13.50).

Layer with Fortifying spray (£16) which has heat protection and then add a few drops of hair oil to help smooth the cuticle through the mid-lengths and ends. Windle & Moodie, of course, do one, Shine & smoothing oil (£21).

Courtesy of Windle & Moodie

Should you wash your hair less often so you do not strip it of its natural oils?

Mia: We recommend to wash hair every other day to gently cleanse it without stripping the natural oils. 

What products should you be using and what ingredients should you be looking for on the labels?

Mia: Of course, I am going to suggest Windle & Moodie treatment shampoos which contain teas. Teas contain antioxidants which make the hair more nourished, radiant and shiny. Also, look for betaine (natural moisturiser),apricot, camellia, argan or coconut oils as they are conditioning. 

What is the best type of hair brush so you don’t create static?

Mia: Natural bristle brushes are great as they do not encourage hair to become static.

How should you dry and style your hair? 

Mia: If you want a sleek, straight finish, blow-dry with a round, bristle brush which will help to achieve a soft, shiny finish. 

A top tip for getting a fringe smooth and sleek is to blow-dry either with a comb or a Denman brush from side to side (blow-dry to the left, and then to the right). This creates smoothness and sleekness. 

It is best to use a nozzle on your hairdryer and direct the heat flow down the hair shaft, section by section to flatten the cuticle. This will make it reflect light so it looks shinier. 

If you want a more natural, tousled, wavy look, you can use your dryer in big, circular movements on a gentle heat and slower airflow. Do not over dry the hair. 

Should you use a diffuser if you have curly hair?

Mia: Yes, a diffuser is a great tool to use for blow drying curly hair. Prep the hair with a curl enhancing product to bind the hair and keep frizz at bay. Then you can finish with a few drops of serum such as Shine & smoothing oil.

How can you work with your natural texture?

Mia: You work with your natural texture by adding creams or oils. That will enhance texture, but not make it frizzy. 

Is it better to leave your hair to dry naturally or will it ruffle up the cuticle which means the hair will not lie flat?

Mia: If your hair is healthy, leaving it to dry naturally will not cause frizz. If your hair is dry or damaged, it is best to coat it with a cream, oil or serum, so it smooths the cuticle. This will allow the hair to dry in its natural state, without using heat. Or, if you have fluffy hair and want a groomed look, you will need to use a dryer. 

Windle & Moodie Shine & smoothing oil

Any tips?

Mia: If you want a smooth, silk, structured hair style, dry hair off completely. 

If you are happy to have your hair more tousled and wavy, then it is fine to leave it damp but make sure you use products (cream, oil, serum) to reduce the potential of getting frizz.

What to do when you get a frizz attack when you are out?

Mia: Always keep serum in your bag and apply a few droplets on dry hair. If you do forget it, comb your hair with wet fingers. 

By Daralyn Danns