When the Brazilian Blow-dry became the must-have beauty treatment, and newspapers were waxing lyrical about it, one of my editors asked me to do a piece. The thought of turning my fluffy tresses into sleek, shiny locks was appealing, so I agreed.
However, after I looked into it, I decided not to have it done. I contacted scientists, as well as speaking to trichologists, suppliers and hairdressers. Keratin treatments, I was told by a scientist, work by bonding the cuticle layers of the hair together and, therefore, they are only effective on the hair cuticle’s surface. The treatment was sealed in with hot irons (around 200- 230C) which in the wrong hands can cause the hair to break. Hairdryers are sometimes used instead of irons.
Formalin, a solution of formaldehyde (approximately 36-39 per cent) dissolved in water and in that form also known as methylene glycol, is what I was told, makes the hair straight.
Formaldehyde can be inhaled as a gas or vapour or it can be absorbed through the skin as a liquid. It is said to be particularly dangerous when heated. The EU Cosmetics Directive permits a concentration of 0.2 per cent of formaldehyde to be used in cosmetic hair products. Also products that contain or release formaldehyde should be labelled with the warning “contains formaldehyde”, if the concentration exceeds 0.05 per cent.
Even when using products with safe levels of formaldehyde, salons have to be well-ventilated as overdosing on this substance can irritate the eyes, skin and may cause respiratory problems. It has also been linked to cancer.
Further research indicated that products were containing more than the amount laid down in the guidelines. Fears about the use of formaldehyde saw what are claimed to be formaldehyde-free versions hit the market. They don’t tend to last as long, as what you are doing is effectively ironing in a conditioner, which may not produce as impressive results. If the products do straighten you need to know what the substance is that makes the hair straight. Research has shown that there are products labelled formaldehyde-free which contain formaldehyde.
Before you have any smoothing treatment it is imperative to carry out extensive research. Ask to see evidence that the product complies with EU guidelines. Enquire about the training your stylist has had and the ventilation (this could be an indicator of whether formaldehyde is being released into the air). Also talk to people with your type of hair about their experiences.
It is interesting to note that the Occupational Safety and Health Administration in the US (OSHA) has recently issued a “Hazard Alert” about these products (osha.gov/SLTC/formaldehyde/hazard_alert.html). This makes interesting reading for both client and salon.
In conjunction with a report issued in October 2010, Oregon OSHA (orosha.org/pdf/Final_Hair_Smoothing_Report.pdf) advises Oregon salons and stylists that “hair smoothing treatments – particularly those generally referred to as 'keratin-based treatments' – should generally be treated as formaldehyde-containing products…”
Health Canada (hc-sc.gc.ca) has also highlighted the fact that several of these treatments contained more than the permitted levels of formaldehyde (0.2 per cent).
By Daralyn Danns
