“Do you think you can tell the difference between a good sparkling English wine and French champagne?" That was the question that Alan Holmes, chef sommelier at the luxurious Chewton Glen, in Hampshire, put to me during a recent visit. I felt confident that I would recognise the different styles, so I accepted the challenge.
Only bubbly that comes from the Champagne region, in France can actually be called champagne. It is made from only three grape types: chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier, often blended. Blanc de Blanc is made only from chardonnay grapes and Blanc de Noir, also white champagne, is made from pinot noir and pinot meunier.
“Although English sparkling wine is made in the same way as champagne and uses the same grapes, which are grown in almost identical deep chalks soils, it can never be called champagne,” Alan explained.
Trying a non-vintage champagne gives you a good indicator to a house’s style as the winemaker produces the same each year. Brut champagnes are very dry. The actual sugar content is 12 grams per litre. Extra Dry, on the label, indicates there are between 12 and 17 grams per litre.
Nyetimber, Alan told me comprises chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier. It was a lovely pale gold and had tiny bubbles. It had a fresh green apple flavour, which lingered on my palate.
Still run by the Taittinger family, it is one of the older great champagne houses. I immediately recognised its elegant style as it’s a champagne that I am rather partial to. This delicate golden wine has a high proportion of chardonnay making it lovely and fruity. I also tasted subtle hints of honey and brioche.
I guessed which one was which. If you fancy doing the test at home, a bottle of Nyetimber Classic Cuvée Vintage 2006 will set you back £29.99 and Taittinger Brut Réserve NV Champagne, £35.99, both from Waitrose.
Alan also gave me some pointers on how to pick a good champagne. “Go for champagnes produced by smaller houses such as Bollinger, Gosset, Ruinart and Taittinger. Some of the bigger brands can dilute quality by producing quantity.”
One of my all-time favourites is Bollinger Special Cuvée (£41.99, Waitrose). This family-owned house produces one of the best classic non-vintage champagnes. It is rich and powerful with a wonderful toasty finish.
Here are some others which I have tasted (all in the name of research, of course) which I think are well worth the money.
Bollinger La Grande Année 2002, £79, Waitrose
For a really special occasion, you will find it hard to beat this gem from Bollinger. This pinky-gold champagne is bursting with character and flavour.
For a really special occasion, you will find it hard to beat this gem from Bollinger. This pinky-gold champagne is bursting with character and flavour.
Champagne Pierre Peters, Cuvée de Réserve, Grand Cru, £28.95, Berry Bros. & Rudd
This zesty champagne from this small producer has just the right amount of acidity and offers excellent value for money.
This zesty champagne from this small producer has just the right amount of acidity and offers excellent value for money.
Ayala Brut Nature “Zéro Dosage”, £24, Selfridges
Dry and crisp, it’s the “perfect diet” champagne as no sugar is added. Also worth trying is the Ayala Brut Majeur (£24), the house champagne at The Goring Hotel, where Kate Middleton spent her last night as a commoner. It’s lively and fresh but well-rounded.
Dry and crisp, it’s the “perfect diet” champagne as no sugar is added. Also worth trying is the Ayala Brut Majeur (£24), the house champagne at The Goring Hotel, where Kate Middleton spent her last night as a commoner. It’s lively and fresh but well-rounded.
By Daralyn Danns
