The sound of the cork popping, the bubbles dancing
spontaneously in the flute and the way it slowly tantalises your taste buds
with rich, fruity flavours. There is no doubt about it, champagne seduces you like no other drink. It’s magic
meets decadence.
To go to Bollinger, producers of some the finest champagnes
[and my personal favourite], was
like being taken to heaven.
And, it doesn’t get more glamorous than being invited to the house where the
revered Madame Bollinger lived, being wined and dined by the eponymous
champagne house.
After drinking exquisite wines, including La Grande Année Rosé 2004, a superb pink bubbly
made with the renowned red wine, Côte aux Enfants, and R.D.1995, a
well-structured aged champagne, Jérôme Philipon, Bollinger’s president
challenged us to a blind tasting.
“Force de punch,” I exclaimed after savouring the fine, delicately bubbled golden-amber champagne. “I like your comment!” he replied. I was extremely flattered as I am no wine critic. But, I know what I like and this silky-smooth liquid gold was like nothing I had ever tasted before. It was Bolllinger’s legendary cuvée, Vieilles Vins Françaises which is regarded by many wine connoisseurs as a jewel in the crown of the champagne world.
At Aÿ, the home of Bollinger’s headquarters, history oozes from the
village’s buildings as if enveloping you in a champagne haze. Fragmented,
well-manicured vineyards carpet the surrounding hills, and millionaires
rub shoulders with farmers. I half expected to see Tante Lily, as Madame
Bollinger is affectionately known, come tearing down the road on her bicycle on
her way to inspect the vineyards – a common sight during the German Occupation
of the Champagne region.
The next morning, I got up early to take a stroll along
Epernay’s fabled Avenue de Champagne punctuated with 19th-century
mansions housing the headquarters of the likes of Moët et Chandon and Mercier.
Bathed in a rosy glow from the rising sun only made them more alluring.
Batteries recharged, I was ready for the science bit.
Bollinger has been around since 1829 and is still family-owned. A tour around the cellars is jaw-stopping.
Blending, fermenting and ageing, so much goes into a bottle. Even
Bollinger Special Cuvée, the house’s non-vintage champagne, is brimming with
reserve wines fermented in barrels – not a common practice in Champagne. I was
gobsmacked to discover that around 300 wines go into making this.
The end of our visit ended with the tasting of the Vin
Clairs, wines from the last harvest. Some of these were so high in acidity, they
almost set my tongue on fire – and that was with swirling them around my mouth
and spitting them out. To think the wine maker has to decide which ones to use.
Afterwards, we were treated to lunch where, of course, there
were more magnificent champagnes to taste. Such hard work!
As the last bubbles in my champagne flute floated away, so
our visit ended. As Madame Bollinger said: “I drink it when I’m happy
and when I’m sad…” I understand why!
By Daralyn Danns
Getting there
Eurostar
offers return fares to Reims, the heart of the Champagne region, with one connection in Paris from £89. Connecting fares from UK
stations available. For more information or to book, visit eurostar.com or call
08432 186 186
Rail Europe
Fares to Epernay, from London to Epernay start at £110 return per person
call 0844 848 4070 or visit www.raileurope.co.uk or call into the Rail Europe Travel
Centre at 193 Piccadilly, London W1J 9EU
I stayed at
La Villa Eugène, www.villa-eugene.com
Visit Champagne Mercier (www.champagnemercier.fr )
to board a laser-guided train on tour around the cellars
Bollinger tours can only be booked through Arblaster &
Clarke (www.winetours.co.uk)
