There is something special about having a glass of
champagne. The sound of the popping of the cork, the bubbles rising in the
glass, always evokes feelings of excitement and pleasure.
However, drinking a
bad champagne can be an unpleasant, and disappointing, experience.
So If you are looking for quality and value for money, check out some of the
smaller producers who put a lot of love and care into making fine wines.
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| Champagne |
Simon Field, buyer for Berry Bros. and Rudd, says that they
are always on the lookout for good individual growers as they demonstrate a
real sense of terroir. “What you are paying for is a reflection of what is in
the glass as the smaller houses don’t have marketing budgets,” says Simon. “As
there are so many different villages in the Champagne region, you get several
styles.”
The vineyards surrounding Cramant and Mensil-sur-Oger in Cote de Blancs produce chardonnay grapes. Blanc de Blancs is the term used for champagnes made only from this grape. These wines are usually light and refreshing yet still elegant that, Simon says, become richer as they age. The Montagne de Reims and the Côte des Bar have a cool limestone terrain and is where pinot noir grapes are grown. The more robust pinot meunier thrives in the more clayey soils of Vallée de la Marne.
Most champagne is made from the three grapes. Producers may
blend grapes varieties from different years, regions and villages.
Pinot noir adds body and structure to the wine, pinot
meunier is used to add fruitiness and aromas, while chardonnay adds a hint of elegance and freshness.
Once you have discovered the taste profile that suits your
palette, you can ask your wine merchant for suggestions.
Champagne Pierre Peters in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger,Côte des Blancs
is a small producer that Simon rates highly. Its champagnes are characterised
by their richness, subtlety and elegance.
Another one to look out for is Champagne R & L Legras
which tends to produce soft, flowery chardonnay wines. If you prefer something
richer, take a look at Champagne Lahaye, one of the leading small wine
grower/producers in Montagne de Reims. He has vineyards in Bouzy, famed for its
good pinot noir grapes. The style of champagne is earthier and bursting with
red fruit flavours.
Champagne Vilamart is also a sought-after producer whose
wines tend to be rich yet lively and are great examples of fine wines from this
region.
Simon points out that as less sugar is usually added to
these wines, you are able to mark the authentic terroir as you savour each
drop.
If you want to try champagnes from the grand marques, Simon
recommends three which I put to the test to see why they stand out from the
crowd.
Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV, £58,
bbr.com
One of the few remaining champagne houses to be owned by the original family. The fine bubbles of this chardonnay cuvée are the hallmark of a first-class champagne. Deliciously creamy with a slight kick, this is an elegant wine that will tantalise your taste buds.
One of the few remaining champagne houses to be owned by the original family. The fine bubbles of this chardonnay cuvée are the hallmark of a first-class champagne. Deliciously creamy with a slight kick, this is an elegant wine that will tantalise your taste buds.
Gosset Grand Reserve Brut, £49.95, bbr.com
A stylish rich and robust, champagne from the oldest wine house in the region. Chardonnay slightly edges pinot noir in this blend. Laced with fruity and biscuit tangs, it has a long and balanced finish. A champagne par excellence.
Pol Roger Brut Réserve NV, £39.95, bbr.com
The small family-controlled house of Pol Roger is renowned for its superb champagnes. It was Sir Winton Churchill’s favourite marque and is beloved by champagne connoisseurs. Zesty fruity flavours are complemented with hints of nuts and honey, a rich yet fresh wine. Exquisite.
By Daralyn Danns
