If I were to describe my vision of heaven it would be
Cartagena de Indias, the Colombian paradise on the Caribbean. In this hot and
steamy city the rhythms of salsa, cumbia and vallenato seem to ooze from the
cobblestones. The Caribbean laid-back, almost soporific, lifestyle merges harmoniously with history, nature and informal
sophistication peppered with a sprinkling of edginess.
The stone walls of Cartagena were built to protect the
city from plundering pirates such
as Sir Francis Drake who wanted to get their hands on the city’s
treasures. Inside the walls is the old town, a glittering and precious jewel,
now a Unesco world heritage site.
Picturesque colonial buildings punctuated with balconies
draped in bougainvillea rub shoulders with ornate cathedrals and buzzing
squares, all set against the bluest of skies. Milling the streets are
characters that could have just popped out of a Gabriel García Márquez novel.
Cartagena de Indias is irresistibly exotic.
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| Cartagena de Indias, the Colombian paradise Courtesy of Proexport Colombia |
It is hard not to be tempted to buy a slice of
mouth-watering pineapple from one of the Palenqueras attired in
brightly-coloured dresses carrying fruit balanced on their heads. These
Afro-Colombian women are a reminder of the melting pot of cultures that have
left their mark on Cartagena.
The hotel that I called home while in the city was the Sofitel Santa Clara. Here in what was once a 17th-century convent you get a sense of detachment from the rest of the world. It has a colonial feel, but modernity stakes its claim as well.
After having breakfast accompanied by parrots and a toucan
that roost in the central courtyard, it was time for a swim in the pool before
heading off to the Rosario Islands, an archipelago of pretty coral islands,
about an hour’s boat ride away.
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| Evening approaching |
Sailing out of the bay through the open sea, the water
miraculously changed to a beautiful shade of turquoise. As I embarked on to the
white sands fringed by palm trees, I felt as if I was entering a film set.
It is easy to see why people come here to the San Pedro de
Malagua hotel to escape reality and engage in a little quiet contemplation. It
certainly does not get more tranquil than this. Besides walking along the
beach, trying some watersports or going to the spa, there is not much else
strenuous to do than lift a drink. As evening approaches, chill out in a
hammock and watch the sun set and gaze at the blanket of stars that covers the
sky.
Bocagrande, Cartagena’s answer to Miami Beach, is only a
short cab ride away from the Sofitel Santa Clara. The beach may not be as beautiful as the ones you
usually find in the Caribbean, but Cartagena's culture and pulsating nightlife
offer so much more than the average Caribbean island.
The late afternoon, when the sea breeze cools the air, is
the best time to explore this city. The late afternoon sun acts likes a
spotlight bathing it with a golden glow.
A ride in a horse-driven carriage around the old town is the
idyllic way to see it. Though it may sound cheesy, it’s rather nostalgic and
romantic which is what Cartagena is all about.
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| The Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas |
If history is your bag, there are a few culture spots you
should see. The Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas provides an insight into the
city’s days of yesteryear. It is considered the best fortress built by the
Spaniards in the colonies.
The Palace of the Inquisition, one of the city's finest
buildings, is now a museum. It is not for the faint-hearted as there are
instruments of torture on display. Worth visiting is the Gold Museum, which has
an impressive collection of pre-Colombian gold artefacts.
Afterwards saunter along the streets and alleys that beg to
be roamed. You will want the exercise to walk off the calories you consume. The
food here is superb. There are so many top-notch restaurants, you will be
spoilt for choice.
Cartagena is a tale of two cities: the old and the new. For
excellent views of the past colliding with the present, take a cab up to the
Convento de la Popa, the mountain-top monastery.
I felt a real pang of regret when it was time to leave for the
airport. It is not often that reality matches the dream. But, then it is not
often that you stumble across the wonder that is Cartagena de Indias.
By Daralyn Danns
Getting there
I stayed at the Sofitel Santa Clara (www.sofitel.com) and
flew with Iberia via Madrid
Last Frontiers (www.lastfrontiers.com) offers tailor-made holidays throughout Latin America including Colombia
For more information about Colombia visit www.colombia.travel/en/
