Tuesday 17 September 2013

Scents



I remember working on a national newspaper and going with one of the senior editors, a hard-nosed news journalist, to a fragrance launch. After the presentation and the air was filled with the new heady scent, he turned round to me and said:” I could sum this multi-paged press release up in one paragraph. No matter what the image is you are trying to sell, surely what really counts is do you or don’t you like the fragrance?”

Perfume is personal. I might like a floral oriental while you may prefer a fresh citrusy scent. What suits one person may not suit another. Certain notes can be intensified on some people or pale into insignificance on others. If you have an oily skin, scent tends to last longer than on somebody who has a drier skin as it usually evaporates much quicker. Diet and weather are another couple of factors that can alter the smell.

Spritzing on a perfume is like blowing bubbles, some stay, while others float away. The first notes of a fragrance that hit you are the lightest ones, the top notes, such as soft florals or citrus. Next comes the medium weight molecules and what you are left with are the base notes that tend to linger longer. Think woods and leather. It takes times for a fragrance to develop, so walk round wearing it for a few hours before you buy it. Or, better still ask for a sample and try it during the day and in the evening. 

You may also want to play around with different strengths. The perfume may work better in the evening, while an eau de toilette is better for day time.

What counts when you choose a fragrance is that you like it and it makes you feel good when you wear it. There is nothing like scent to evoke memories, so spend time choosing the right one for you.

If you want to try something a little bit different, here are three houses to seek out.

Atelier Cologne
The company was founded by two lovers, Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervasel, who had a penchant for cologne. This citrus-scented, Kölnisch Wasser, as the Germans called it, was first concocted in Cologne in the 18th century by an Italian perfumer. Atelier Cologne has fused the concentrate of a perfume with the freshness of cologne with interesting results. And for those that like some emotion dished up with their scent, each one comes with its own story. If you buy one of these, don’t be surprised if your man takes it to using it as well. They have been created to be worn by men and women.




Silver Iris, Cologne Absolue, £130, Selfridges
One of Atelier Cologne’s latest fragrances to hit the counters. A melange of citrus, pink pepper and blackcurrant underpinned with patchouli, amber and Brazilian tonka bean, this scent packs quite a punch.

Tiziani Terenzi
Established over 44 years ago, this Italian family-owned company has stayed true to is origins and is still producing scents from the same small artisan laboratory where it started. The fragrances tend to be quite intense. The aromas are supposed to make you feel as if they have captured the essence of life – the rough and the smooth.  




Maremma Extrait de Parfum, £115, Fortnum & Mason
The hills of Maremma, Tuscany were the inspiration for  this fruity-floral perfume, that is toughened up with wood,  leather and coca powder. It is quite powerful on first whiff, but when it settles and warms with the skin it is extremely wearable.

Atkinsons
It roots date back to 1799. James Atkinson’s fine scents and grooming essentials, were used by some influential people of the time including Napoleon and Nelson. He also attracted the attention of King George IV and became the official parfumer to the Court of St James’s. Now the brand has reawakened after its long sleep and is back with plenty of quintessentially English fragrances to tempt you.



24 Old Bond Street, £60
Equally appealing to men and women, this cologne says English, in no uncertain terms. Rose and black tea are given oomph with smoky whisky. If you like something a little bit out of the ordinary, this will be for you.

By Daralyn Danns