As dusk fell, the white lights of the medieval hilltop town
of Assisi flickered in the distance making it look like it had been crowned
with a halo. It was bewitching and beguiling.
According to the
legend, Francis, the son of a wealthy merchant living in Assisi in
1204, had a vision to rebuild the Church. He traded his comfortable life
for one of poverty and dedicated his life to Christianity. Motivated by his
teachings, Clare of Assisi joined him to found the Order of St Clare. Today,
this pretty town connected to St Francis and St Clare is a place of pilgrimage.
I am not religious at all, but the next morning entering the
imposing Basilica di San Francesco, I
felt that there was definitely a mystical quality about the place. St
Francis, renowned for calling all animals his brothers and sisters, is buried in the crypt in the lower
church.
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| Assisi |
The magnificent frescoes by Giotto – the artist credited
with sparking the Italian Renaissance – depicting the life of St Francis along
with other great works of medieval art and architecture, in both the upper and
lower churches, will have any art and history buff salivating.
According to my guide, the halo that I had seen the night
previously was not the result of clever lighting but a phenomenon. It was
surreal. Who knows? What is not in doubt is that Umbria is a treasure chest tempting you to delve straight
in.
Immersing yourself in the gentle bucolic landscape has to be
one of life’s great pleasures even for the most seasoned traveller. Towns with
castles and encompassing defensive walls and charming villages humming along to
the sedate rhythms of tradition, pepper Italy’s “green heart”.
Gems such as
Panicale, overlooking Lake Trasimeno, reputed to be one of the most beautiful
villages in Italy, make an essential outing. It has a distinctive medieval
flavour. Make sure you visit the Church of San Sebastiano. It has frescoes by
Perugino and houses the Teatro Cesare Caporali, one of the smallest theatres in
Umbria.
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| Panicale |
Todi, another picturesque town built on the top of a hill,
seems untouched by the passing
centuries. The central piazza, once a Roman forum, is delightful to
stroll around to soak up the atmosphere.
Gubbio, another small well-preserved medieval jewel, is home
to the Eugubine Tablets, seven bronze plaques written in the now extinct
Umbrian language that date back over 2000 years.
While Umbria has lots of fascinating relics the ancient city
of Città di Castello has presently turned its attention to marking the century
of one of its most celebrated sons, Alberto Burri who was born here in 1915.
Heralded as a master of 20th-century art, there is a special
exhibition of his works at a
former tobacco-processing factory, just outside the city.
Renowned for working with a wide range of unconventional
materials such as sacking, tar and resin, his paintings – he had a fascination
with black-on-black forms – make an interesting viewing. Go round with a guide if you can to help you
understand his thought processes and be better able to appreciate his
art.
Although the Etruscans and Romans have left their imprints on
Umbria, it is arguably the medieval period that has had a bigger impact on the
region. But, it was at Narni nestled on a rocky cliff, that I got an insight
into Italy’s murkier and more sordid past, the Roman Inquisition. Better known
as St. Uffizio, it was established in 1452.
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| Wall covered with inscriptions |
Underneath Santa Maria Maggiore, a 14th-century
Dominican church is a well-preserved Roman Inquisition secret court of the
Catholic Church. (Every town as well as small villages had one, though not all
have been uncovered.) Narni Underground, as this labyrinth of restored rooms is
now known, was discovered by chance by Robert Nini and some of his friends in
the late 1970s.
After stumbling on the ruins of a medieval chapel frescoed
in angels, they discovered the inquisition chambers. Going through torture
rooms and cells that were used for approximately 200 years from 1650, made the
hairs on the back of my neck stand up.
What makes this experience particularly chilling is the cell
that has walls covered in inscriptions signed by Andrea Giuseppe Lombardini
trying to inform future generations of his innocence. Happily, he was eventually freed.
It is not just a feast of culture and rustic and rural
countryside that are the draws to this region, Umbria also excels in food and
wine.
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| Todi |
In the stunning little pedestrian town of Bevagna, we came
across a real find, Scottadito, run by husband and wife Rosita and Marco who
come from a long line of butchers. They also own the artisan butcher’s shop so
you can be assured of fresh meat.
The Italians know how to display their wares. There were
several lovely shops here so beautifully presented, including a wonderful
cashmere outlet, that were so hard to resist. Unfortunately, time
was of the essence so no shopping. But, we did have time to enjoy some typical
Umbrian cuisine at Scottadito.
Truffles, hams, cheeses and wines are superb in this area.
It was obligatory for educational purposes
you understand to visit Cantina Goretti to sample some rather good
Umbrian wines. My favourite was the palate charmer, Montefalco Rosso, that
slipped down a treat.
Umbria, never flash or brash or rushed lifts the spirit and
the soul.
By Daralyn Danns
Getting there
Ryanair has regular flights to Perugia. For best rates visit
www.ryanair.com
The four-star Hotel Tiferno (www.hoteltiferno.it) in the heart of
Città di Castello, has a lovely atmosphere and gives a sense of place
The four-star Valle di Assisi (www.vallediassisi.com), just outside
Assisi, at the foot of Monte Subasio, nestled in vineyards and olive trees is
this rather good hotel. Treat yourself to some pampering at the spa, it is
worth it.
