Even in my wildest
dreams I never imaged having something in common with Mehmed the Conqueror.
Yet here I was in
Istanbul, celebrating his conquest of the Turkish city in 1453 and his
contribution to culinary traditions at the Ottoman Hotel Imperial’s Matbah
Restaurant.
Overlooking the Cafer Aga Medresse, the call to prayer echoing
in the cooling night air, I was
savouring, the delicious Ottoman Palace based-cuisine.
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| Ottoman Hotel Imperial |
Like Istanbul, the enchanting city that bestrides Asia and Europe, it is a
heady mix of flavours, from a wealth of ancient and modern cultures, topped
with a hint of spice that makes it sizzle.
This was my first visit to Istanbul, but thanks to the
charming Ottoman Hotel Imperial, a luxury boutique hotel, once a 19th
century Ottoman school and hospital, I had already found a sense of place. Here
history pushed up against modernity. The warm and friendly staff provided
excellent service.
Whatever you read or hear, nothing prepares you for the
enormity of the city that was the former capital of the Byzantine and the
Ottoman empires. Reputedly, more than
18 million people live here and, apparently, the population is
growing daily, so I arranged for a guide to help me unravel the layers.
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The Bosphorus
Courtesy of Turkish Culture and Tourism Office
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The next day I was up bright and early to meet Yavuz, my
guide, to do the mandatory day, or so I thought, of running round mosques and
palaces of Sultanahmet.
The tour began at the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, also known as the
Blue Mosque because of the gorgeous blue tiles inside. You have to queue for
ages, so go early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the queues – ensure
you avoid prayer times.
Arguably more exquisite is the Hagia Sophia built for Emperor Justinian in the 6th
century. Originally Christian, the Ottoman Turks converted it into a mosque and
today is a museum. (Closed Mondays.)
Not to be missed is the opulent Topkapi Palace bursting with
relics from the Ottoman Dynasty. You could while away hours here conjuring up
pictures of Arabian nights. If you are short of time make sure you see the
Imperial Treasury, the Harem and the Chamber of Holy Relics where you will find
a staff, which is said to have belonged to Moses, and some hairs supposedly
from Mohammed’s beard. (Closed Tuesdays.)
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