Destination Bocas del Toro, Panama

Bocas del Toro

Courtesy of Central America Tourism Agency

Sugar-sandy beaches with turquoise waters set against a backdrop of rainforests are the lure of Bocas del Toro.

The archipelago, on the Caribbean coast, is one of Panama’s most popular beach destinations. It is a melting pot of cultures, ranging from indigenous people from the Western Caribbean to Latinos to globetrotters, who discovered Bocas, as the locals call it, and never left.

It is easy to see why. The islands brimming with abundant vegetation are unspoilt, almost primitive. It’s as if life here has stood still for centuries. It is so laid-back, which is obviously its appeal for the foreigners to have made it their home.

Even in the capital Bocas del Toro, on the Isla Colón, despite having a few shops, some small pretty hotels and a smattering of good restaurants and lively bars, is not packed with tourists.

Bocas is not only a haven for beach goers but it is also attracts bird watchers, surfers and divers. It is also great for snorkelling – the coral reefs here are spectacular.

The best way to see the islands and keys is to spend a day taking a leisurely boat trip. I passed by forests, farms and so many stunning beaches fringed with mangrove. Photographs don’t do them justice. One of my favourites was Buff Beach, covered in vibrant orange sand. You may spot white-faced monkeys and marine turtles.

The Bastimentos Island National Marine Park

The Bastimentos Island National Marine Park, a combination of nature reserve, forest and beach is not to be missed. Also on Bastimentos Island is Red Frog Beach, one of the most popular beaches in Bocas, which gets its name from the small red frogs that inhabit the beach. You can hear them during the day. I was told they are poisonous, but the good news is that they are not a threat to humans.

Lots of tourists stay at the villas here. For me it was just a little too remote although there are plenty of activities on offer ranging from dolphin watching to spa treatments to simply lazing on the beach. Be careful not to swim out too far as you can encounter a strong undertow. 

On route to Restaurante Alfonso

Lunch was at Restaurante Alfonso, a thatched restaurant built on stilts in the middle of the ocean. We stopped off on the tour in the morning to order our lunch which was ready at the designated time. Fresh fish and a room with a view, what more could you ask for?

Well, maybe a home like Lin Gillingham’s Finca Los Monos Botanical Garden. She and her husband purchased this 20-acre property, then a green wall of jungle, about 12 years ago and have now created a tropical utopia complete with views of the Caribbean. The garden is bursting with lush flowers, fruit trees and ornate plants. Walking around the winding paths to the sounds of humming birds, you may bump into monkeys, birds and snakes.

In the evening the town of Bocas comes alive. Caribbean music fills the streets. And the party begins.

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there

Jetcost   jetcost.com from Panama City

Playa Tortuga Hotel & Beach Resort, Bocas del Toro (www.hotelplayatortuga.com) For further info www.visitpanama.com and www.visitcentroamerica.com

Destination Panama City

Panama City
Courtesy of Autoridad de Turismo Panamá

Panama City fizzes with a gritty energy that reflects the determination that has helped it to position itself as Central America’s financial hub and a big draw for tourists.

Its coastal setting peppered with skyscrapers made me think I had been misrouted to Miami, but as I delved a little deeper I discovered Panama City, the capital of the Republic of Panama, is a hot and steamy city in more ways than one.

Panama is a challenging country and, to quote an American I met, it will teach you patience. But, it won’t be long before Panama’s melting pot of cultures and diverse landscapes work their magic and you will find yourself hooked.

Lodged between the Caribbean Sea to the north and the Pacific Ocean to the south, this small country’s population is estimated to be 3.3 million with approximately one million people living in Panama City which was founded in 1519 by the Spaniard Pedro Arias Dávila.

In 1671, Panama City was attacked and pilfered by the Welsh pirate Henry Morgan. The city was eventually destroyed by a fire. Here at the ruins of Panamá La Vieja (Old Panama) learning about the country’s history, I began to understand why this city has evolved into what it is today.

Casco Antiguo
Courtesy of Autoridad de Turismo Panamá

Casco Antiguo, the old quarter where the city was rebuilt after the fire, is awash with 16^th and 17^th century Spanish colonial architecture. A slum, until a few years ago, the area is now being developed and its narrow streets and squares throb with cafés, restaurants, boutiques and traders selling almost everything from hats to food.

The Canal Zone, a former US territory, was only handed over to Panama in late 1999. As Panama started reaping the rewards from the canal, the country began to develop and is now going through a boom as foreign investors pour in their capital.

Panama Canal

A quick tour of The Miraflores Visitors Centre, at the Miraflores Locks, gives a good orientation into the Panama Canal’s history and its operational process as well as providing an insight into future developments. But, nothing beats a trip on the canal itself, even if you have passed through on a cruise ship, as it gives you a chance to get up close and personal with its workings.

At the Gamboa Rainforest Resort, on the banks of the Chagres River and Panama Canal, just 30 minutes outside the city, the aerial tram whisked me through rainforest peppered with exotic plants and animals including snakes. The highlight was a trip to Monkey Island. After tearing along the Panama Canal in a small boat, I reached the shores of Lake Gatún to be greeted by white-faced capuchin monkeys.

Emberá Indian Village
Courtesy of Autoridad de Turismo Panamá

A rather special day out was a visit to the Emberá Indian Village in the Chagres National Park. After getting into a dug-out canoe, a group of us sailed across Lake Alajuela and along the Chagres River to reach the village where the chief and his people were on hand to give us a rapturous welcome. It was like being catapulted back in time. The way of life can’t have changed much since the 1500s, when Christopher Columbus arrived.

Panama City is a treasure trove with lots of gems waiting to be discovered. The canal is only one of them.

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there

Iberia (www.iberia.com)
Hotel Bristol Panama (thebristol.com)

For general information visit www.visitpanama.com and www.visitcentroamerica.com

 

Watching your weight when eating out

It’s always difficult when you are in a restaurant or coffee shop to know what to choose when you are trying to shed a few pounds. Here are some tips to help you.

"Switch to lower fat food," says Alastair Duncan, lead dietitian at St Thomas' Hospital. He suggests going for anything that is grilled, steamed or boiled and avoiding fried foods. He also advises eating regularly throughout the day so you don't get hungry.

"A good breakfast will set you up for the day,” he says. "Have whole grain cereal with skimmed or semi-skimmed milk, porridge or even whole grain toast. Have a portion of fruit as well.” He points out that a piece of fruit is better than fruit juice as it is more filling and contains less sugar.

"Make a rule to have breakfast as skipping it can lead to less clarity of thought. If you feel hungry during the morning, snack on fruit," he adds.

Eating out can be problematic. Alastair suggests opting for fish. You should avoid curries or sauces made with cream. Watch your portion size.  

If you are heading for the sandwich bar, choose salads or sushi. Have sandwiches that don't contain mayonnaise. Soup with a wholemeal bread roll is a good choice provided the soup isn't made with cream or full fat milk.

"If your lunch does contain a high amount of salt, cut down your intake in the evening," says Alastair. "Cut calories first and salt second.

"For dinner have lean fish or meat and vegetables. You should have fish two to three times a week, one portion should be oily."

Not all fat is bad. “Although nuts and olive oil contain some saturated fat, it's the ratio of fats within a food that is important,” explains Alastair. “Most nuts, olive and rapeseed oils are predominately monounsaturated fat and therefore less atherogenic. Eaten in moderate amounts these foods will not increase cholesterol. However, if someone is trying to lose weight they should try to limit all fats.”

Before you arrange that after-work drink, remember alcohol equals calories. "Limit yourself to two to three units a day," says Alastair. "Everybody should have at least two alcohol free days a week." 

If you have a sweet tooth, Alastair advises having a couple of squares of good quality dark chocolate every now and then to satisfy your cravings.

When you are tempted to have more, think of all those summer clothes that will soon be hitting the shops.

By Daralyn Danns

How to lose weight – the right way

If you have gained weight over the holidays, you are not alone. The British Nutrition Foundation say that studies show, on average, people gain around 5 lbs (2 kg) in the four-week Christmas period, because we tend to increase our calorie intake by about 500 kcal per day. This may sound a lot, but it is approximately the equivalent of a few handfuls of crisps, a mini sausage roll and a couple of glasses of wine.

There are no wonder diets or foods that lead to instant weight loss. So forget food-combining diets, which say that you can lose weight by avoiding eating carbohydrates and proteins together in the same meal, as there is no scientific evidence to back up this theory, or any other miracle cure that you read about in newspapers and magazines. If you think you may have a food allergy or intolerance go to see your GP. Cutting food groups out of your diet can mean you are depriving your body of essential nutrients and vitamins. 

To shed the extra pounds you need to burn more calories than you take in. By making a few simple changes to your eating habits and lifestyle you will keep your weight steady and avoid regaining any lost weight and it will also be good for your long-term health.

Avoid foods that are high in fat. Switch to skimmed milk in your coffee or tea, opt for wholemeal bread and pasta and choose wholegrain cereals.

Don’t skip breakfast. Try porridge which has a low GI (Glycaemic Index), meaning that sugars will be released more slowly into the bloodstream, providing you with a steady amount of energy. Snack on healthy foods such as fruit, vegetables, low-fat yogurt, crispbreads or rice cakes. Nuts are good for you as they provide protein, vitamins and essential fatty acids, but avoid eating too many as they are high in fat and calories.

Claire Williamson, a nutrition scientist for the British Nutrition Foundation advocates keeping the "energy density" of your diet low. “This means having lots of water-rich foods such as fruit and vegetables, soups and stews,” she says. “You can eat satisfying portions of food without piling on the pounds. Aim to fill half of your dinner or lunch plate with vegetables.” Soup is a good option, especially if you are eating out, but beware of soups made with cream or a lot of salt.

Good hydration is essential. “You should try to drink at least 6-8 glasses of non-alcoholic fluids per day. Water is a great choice, but other fluids such as tea, coffee, fruit juices and soft drinks also count towards your fluid intake,” says Claire. “It’s best to avoid getting calories from drinks if you are trying to lose weight, so avoid sugary or alcoholic drinks.” 

Exercise is important. It is all too tempting to spend dark, cold winter days sitting in front of the television and heading for the chocolate tin. Claire’s advice is to potter about, do a bit of cleaning, chat to friends. “Standing up and moving about will mean you are burning about twice as many calories as you would be sitting down!” she says. Better still go for a bike ride or 30-minute walk. Even a brisk walk round a shopping mall can burn a few extra calories.

By Daralyn Danns

Blonde or brunette

The best Christmas present I got was my fabulous hair colour, all thanks to the wonderful José Molino, at Neville Hair and Beauty. A year ago, it was a completely different story. I walked out of the hairdressers with too many ash blonde highlights in my hair. As I am a naturally a brunette, they made my skin look grey. Not a particularly flattering look in the winter, especially under electric light.

                                          Blonde

A year later, José has reinvented me as what I describe as, a sun-kissed brunette. Blonde hair does stand out in a crowd, but some women look better darker and I am one of them.

Colour has to work not only with your cut, but with the colour of your eyes and skin tone. A few ash blonde highlights in my hair were fine as I have a neutral skin tone, but when I had too many in my hair the grey reflected on to my skin making me look ill. The next colourist made it orange streaked with yellow and the one after managed to turn it into what could only be described as mud tinged with red and green. Subtle it wasn’t.

When I met José he immediately wanted to make me a sandy brunette – a mixture of both – with the emphasis on gold lights rather than ashy. From the first time he did my hair it became light brown with oompf, I was delighted. It threw light on to my face and warmed up my complexion.

                                                               Sandy brunette

Walking from the salon, I instantly felt me. My whole demeanour changed. As a blonde, I always felt as if I was somebody else. I found it harder to buy clothes. Colours which I had previously loved didn’t work anymore. Did I get treated differently? I don’t think so. But, when I emerged as a brunette 

I went into one shop and looked at a handbag which the assistant told me was far too old for me. A couple of friends also commented I looked younger as a brunette – probably, because my hair looks more natural and works better with my skin tone. 

The rule of thumb is: the darker your natural colour, the more difficult it is to go blonde. If you are a medium brown, stay a brunette. If you have sallow skin steer away from blonde.

Due to the mess that my hair was in, José had his work cut out eliminating all the orange tones to get it perfect. It did take a few times to get it right but it has been well worth it. My golden brown locks look so natural that people don’t realise I colour them.

There are also benefits of having dark hair. It is glossier than fair hair. Deeper shades add dimension to your tresses making them look thicker. But, the greatest advantage being a brunette is that I need less make-up as my hair warms up my complexion. And that is a lot of time saved each morning!

By Daralyn Danns

Neville Hair and Beauty (nevillehairandbeauty.net)

Destination Paris

© ATOUT FRANCE/Hervé Le Gac

Paris is the city of style. I love the sense of history, the stunning buildings and the wide boulevards. I took the Eurostar, which is “greener” than flying, and comes without the hassle of a lengthy check-in procedure you usually have with airlines nowadays. After a comfortable couple of hours I stepped out into another world. I crammed so much into a day that when I returned to London I felt that my trip had the same benefits as if I have been away for a weekend.

Paris is totally absorbing. All the neighbourhoods have their own distinct personality. It is easy to get round the city using the Metro combined with some leisurely walking. The more aimlessly I wander the more I discover, including great boutiques. After all, the Parisian shops are an important part of the city's identity.

 Le Marais

I started my day in Le Marais, one of the city’s oldest districts which is now rather trendy. It’s where tradition meets modernity. It is easy to while away a couple of hours here roaming the narrow medieval streets, which are peppered with beautiful boutiques crammed with cool fashion and which sit comfortably alongside art galleries and lovely cafés all surrounded by amazing architecture.

Over a cup of coffee I sat chatting to a couple of locals and got a real feel for the place. I never find the Parisians aloof. A word of advice, if you can speak a little French, or at least you show you are trying, people seem to warm more easily to you.

Next on the agenda was rue Faubourg St Honoré, littered with designer labels. There are plenty of shops around this area where you can lighten your wallet. However, don't expect bargains, prices are about the same, and in some cases, dearer than at home.

A shopping trip to Paris wouldn't be complete without a visit to Galleries Lafayette (bd Haussmann). This department store is home to a vast array of brands so it's well worth a visit.

After a rummage round the store, I decided it was time for lunch and headed to visit Lafayette Gourmet. It’s a foodies’ heaven stocked with all the delicacies you could possibly imagine. It also has some superb delis, tasting bars and restaurants.

Les Tuilleries

To burn off the calories, I walked from the Louvre to Place de la Concorde through Les Tuilleries – these gardens truly are magnificent – to take a quick stroll beside the Seine before returning home.

I always leave Paris wanting more. As Eurostar is such a civilised way to travel and there are always good deals for a day, I know it won't be long until I go back.

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there

Eurostar operates up to 18 daily services from London St Pancras International to Paris (fastest London-Paris journey time 2hrs 15mins). Connecting fares available from over 200 stations in the UK. Return fares from £69. Book through eurostar.com or call 08432 186 186.

Worth checking out Eurostar plus, (available with your ticket) for special offers such as 2-for-1 entry into museums and galleries and discounts at shops including Galeries Lafayette as well as restaurants.

Tips on buying wine

Choosing a wine when you are in the supermarket or in a restaurant or bar can be daunting. Where do you start? Should you stick to what you know or be brave and experiment?

I asked Alan Holmes, chef sommelier at Chewton Glen, the renowned country house hotel in Hampshire, for some guidelines.

“Don’t buy the cheapest wine,” says Alan. “Trading up a couple of pounds to around £8 per bottle means you will buy a much better quality of wine.” He also suggests checking out wines on offer in places such as Waitrose and Tesco where wines have been on sale at higher prices. “These can offer some of the best value for money,” he adds. “Ask the wine manager for advice. They are usually very knowledgeable and can point you in the right direction.”

When choosing wine in a restaurant, Alan says: “Don’t pick the cheapest one on the menu as it can often have the highest mark-up. Discuss with the wine waiter what wines you like and what you don’t like.”

Wine is personal. If you found a French sauvignon blanc too dry tell them, or a Australian merlot too heavy, say so. If you are not sure about grape types say what flavours you like. For example, strawberry flavours are often associated with pinot noir grapes, while blackcurrants and tannins are usually the characteristics of a cabernet sauvignon. If you like zesty whites you may want to try a riesling or sauvignon blanc from the New World.

“The same wine may taste different dependent on where the grapes are grown,” says Alan. “Sauvignon blanc from cooler climates such as the Loire Valley will be lighter than a sauvignon blanc from New Zealand as grapes grown in warmer climates have more sugar and the wines tend to be fruitier and have more alcohol.” 

What wines to watch out for?  Alan says wines from places such as Romania and Bulgaria can be good value. Chenin blancs from South Africa, sauvignon blancs and cabernet sauvignon from Chile and Grüner Veltliner from Austria are some of the most popular ones right now.

By Daralyn Danns

Tips for choosing champagne

“Do you think you can tell the difference between a good sparkling English wine and French champagne?" That was the question that Alan Holmes, chef sommelier at the luxurious Chewton Glen, in Hampshire, put to me during a recent visit. I felt confident that I would recognise the different styles, so I accepted the challenge.

Only bubbly that comes from the Champagne region, in France can actually be called champagne. It is made from only three grape types: chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier, often blended. Blanc de Blanc is made only from chardonnay grapes and Blanc de Noir, also white champagne, is made from pinot noir and pinot meunier.

“Although English sparkling wine is made in the same way as champagne and uses the same grapes, which are grown in almost identical deep chalks soils, it can never be called champagne,” Alan explained.

Trying a non-vintage champagne gives you a good indicator to a house’s style as the winemaker produces the same each year. Brut champagnes are very dry. The actual sugar content is 12 grams per litre. Extra Dry, on the label, indicates there are between 12 and 17 grams per litre. 

Alan gave me Nyetimber 2006 Classic Cuvée and Taittinger Brut Réserve NV (both £13.95 a glass), to try.

Nyetimber, Alan told me comprises chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier. It was a lovely pale gold and had tiny bubbles. It had a fresh green apple flavour, which lingered on my palate.

Still run by the Taittinger family, it is one of the older great champagne houses. I immediately recognised its elegant style as it’s a champagne that I am rather partial to. This delicate golden wine has a high proportion of chardonnay making it lovely and fruity. I also tasted subtle hints of honey and brioche.

I guessed which one was which. If you fancy doing the test at home, a bottle of Nyetimber Classic Cuvée Vintage 2006 will set you back £29.99 and Taittinger Brut Réserve NV Champagne, £35.99, both from Waitrose.

Alan also gave me some pointers on how to pick a good champagne. “Go for champagnes produced by smaller houses such as Bollinger, Gosset, Ruinart and Taittinger. Some of the bigger brands can dilute quality by producing quantity.”

One of my all-time favourites is Bollinger Special Cuvée (£41.99, Waitrose). This family-owned house produces one of the best classic non-vintage champagnes. It is rich and powerful with a wonderful toasty finish.

Here are some others which I have tasted (all in the name of research, of course) which I think are well worth the money.

Bollinger La Grande Année 2002, £79, Waitrose
For a really special occasion, you will find it hard to beat this gem from Bollinger. This pinky-gold champagne is bursting with character and flavour.   

Champagne Pierre Peters, Cuvée de Réserve, Grand Cru, £28.95, Berry Bros. & Rudd
This zesty champagne from this small producer has just the right amount of acidity and offers excellent value for money.

Ayala Brut Nature “Zéro Dosage”, £24, Selfridges
Dry and crisp, it’s the “perfect diet” champagne as no sugar is added. Also worth trying is the Ayala Brut Majeur (£24), the house champagne at The Goring Hotel, where Kate Middleton spent her last night as a commoner. It’s lively and fresh but well-rounded.

By Daralyn Danns