Friday, 3 February 2012

The allure of chocolate


I admit to being a chocoholic, so I am grateful to Christopher Columbus and the Spanish traders for ensuring the first cocoa beans arrived in Europe. First consumed as a drink, it wasn’t until 1847 that Fry & Sons, a Bristol-based company, reputedly produced the first chocolate bar.  

Courtesy of  La Maison du Chocolat

“Chocolate contains a number of vitamins and minerals,” says Dr Áine O'Connor, nutrition scientist at the British Nutrition Foundation. “Milk chocolate is high in calcium and contains iron, while dark chocolate is higher in iron, although there is some debate about how absorbable the minerals in chocolate are. There are foods that provide much better sources of these nutrients such as meat and milk.

“It also contains flavonoids, which are components of a group of substances known as polyphenols that have antioxidant properties. Dark chocolate has more than twice the level of polyphenols as milk chocolate, per serving, while white chocolate contains no antioxidants.

“There has been some interest in the use of dark chocolate to lower heart disease, but current evidence is inconclusive due to limitations in the design of studies. Chocolate also contains high amounts of saturated fat, such as stearic acid – although this fat does not raise cholesterol levels. Chocolate is also high in sugar, and calories.”

Dr O'Connor suggests chocolate should be considered as treat as part of a healthy, balanced diet, rather than a health food. I eat good quality dark chocolate which contains cocoa mass, cocoa butter, sugar and sometimes real vanilla. As the flavours linger on the palette you need less to satisfy your craving. 


I asked Richard O’Connor, co-founder of Chocolate and Love (chocolateandlove.com), which specialises in top notch chocolate, how to pick a good bar.

“Ninety per cent of all good chocolate bars will tell you on the label where the chocolate beans come from,” says Richard. “Don’t choose chocolate just because it is made in Switzerland or Belgium. They produce some good chocolate they also produce very bad stuff.”

Richard’s tip is to choose trinitario and criollo beans, not forastero, from Venezuela, Madagascar, Peru, Dominican Republic and Ecuador. “They all produce great beans, but also some bad beans,” he says.

He recommends avoiding the big brands and choosing smaller ones such as Amano, Amedei, Bonnat, Original beans, Duffy and, of course, Chocolate and Love.

I’m a recent convert to Pacari Raw Chocolate, 70% cacao (£3,50, wholefoodsmarket.com) from Ecuador, which has been minimally processed to help preserve the flavonoids. It is fruity tempered with a hint of oak. I’m also a fan of La Maison du Chocolat. My favourite bar is the Pariguan Bar 69% (£8.20), which is made from criollo beans from Venezula.

According to Richard, it is a myth that good chocolate is over 70 per cent. “It is like saying good wine is over 14 per cent alcohol. If you want to taste the flavours then it needs to be about 70 per cent, otherwise you are tasting too much sugar, but beans badly fermented and conched at 70 per cent, will taste bitter.”

Go for quality, not quantity and enjoy!

By Daralyn Danns