The English are renowned for their creative approach to
fashion which could be thanks to the Tudors and Stuarts.
We all know what we wear sends out a statement and can convey so much more than words. During the reign of the Tudors and Stuarts, your outfit had to be carefully chosen as, according to Anna Reynolds, the curator of the exhibition In Fine Style: The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion, “entry to the inner circle was largely driven by personal appearance.”
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| Elizabeth 1 when a princess, cicra 1546 Attributed to William Scrots Courtesy of the Royal Collection Trust
© Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2013
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We all know what we wear sends out a statement and can convey so much more than words. During the reign of the Tudors and Stuarts, your outfit had to be carefully chosen as, according to Anna Reynolds, the curator of the exhibition In Fine Style: The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion, “entry to the inner circle was largely driven by personal appearance.”
It was the rich and powerful, back then who were the ones
who were at the cutting-edge of fashion. “Their style was eclectic. They hadn’t
worked out what English fashion was and so they took pieces from different
countries and combined them in a unique and quirky way,” says Anna.
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| Frances Teresa Stuart, Duchess of Richmond, c 1662 By Sir Peter Lely Courtesy of the Royal Collection Trust
© Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2013
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This amazing exhibition at the Queen’s Gallery, Buckingham Palace cleverly melds superb still-life painting with the fashions of the time. From looks borrowed from the boys to the art of subtly conveying sexiness as depicted in the picture of the young Princess Elizabeth (Queen Elizabeth 1), this exhibition shows how clothes were not only used as a visible sign of status, but as a way to convey a national identity or make a political statement.
The picture of the princess also cleverly denotes her royal
birth. The almost invisible tiny flecks of gold when the light catches them
turns the red silk into a golden cloth, which by law only Henry Vlll and his
immediate family were allowed to wear. When Elizabeth became queen, she too
enforced strict laws as to what fabrics and styles could be worn by the
different levels in society.
It was not just the women who were interested in fashion, but the men too. I wonder what Charles ll would say now if he knew that his revolutionary look of 1666, a long vest worn under a coat that quickly replaced the usual male attire, the doublet, would pave the way for today’s three piece suit? Charles’s look was such a hit that within a few weeks, even the diarist Samuel Pepys had his own take on it.
It was not just the women who were interested in fashion, but the men too. I wonder what Charles ll would say now if he knew that his revolutionary look of 1666, a long vest worn under a coat that quickly replaced the usual male attire, the doublet, would pave the way for today’s three piece suit? Charles’s look was such a hit that within a few weeks, even the diarist Samuel Pepys had his own take on it.
The show traces the changing tastes and styles of the royal
court during the 16th and 17th centuries and the
influence of France and Italy on fashion. It is spectacular how accurately the
painters captured details of clothes such as intricate lace and
jewellery.
The Tudors and Stuarts are still influencing the designers
of today. The British designer Gareth Pugh draws inspiration from the people,
whom he sees as ”the first power-dressers”. Fashion and style aficionados will
not want to miss this exhibition. You may just pick up a pointer or two.
By Daralyn Danns
From 10 May until 6 October. For tickets and information visit royalcollection.org.uk
