Monday 16 December 2013

Food and wine pairing



Bovey Castle, a five-star hotel set within the spectacular Dartmoor National Park in Devon, is the epitome of an English country house hotel, renowned for its fine dining. I asked Ahmet Ucar, the sommelier for some tips on pairing wine with food.

“Our guests tend to be more traditional and prefer old world wines,” he said. “They like wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy as well as Italy and Spain.” Particular favourites, he told me, are wines from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the largest and most well-known appellation in the Southern Rhône. These complex, full-bodied rich, spicy wines are a blend of several grape varieties and work well with beef. Whites from the Loire such as sancerre and sauvignon blanc are other popular wines, especially when people are eating fish.

From Italy, reds from Barolo, in the Piedmont region are popular. Made from the nebbiolo grape, they tend to be deliciously powerful and well-structured.  Also popular are the fragrant tangy wines from Chianti.

There is also an interest in Spanish wines. Catalonia, known for cava, is now producing some great reds.

Portugal also has started to produce some wonderful wines that offer exceptional value for money. “Vinho verde, a fresh and zesty wine is great with seafood,” says Ahmet . “While there are some good reds from Douro and Alentejo.


The Edwardian Grill, Bovey Castle


Suggestions from Ahmet that work with dishes from Bovey Castle’s menu, which you can try with similar recipes of your own.

To go with Scallops Bath chap, mustard and apple (a dish on the menu) he suggests a pinot gris such as Ernest Loosen “Villa Wolf” 2011 from PFALZ region.

“Pinot gris is not normally associated with Germany (where it is known as Grauburgunder ),” says Ahmet. “This wine shows a peachy, fruity flavour with a lovely creamy texture.

“It has a gorgeous mineral structure too. The spare, tense texture of the wine is a wonderful foil for the pan-fried scallops, while the moderate alcohol respects the delicate flesh and can handle the bath chap (braised pork cheek ). The 2011 vintage is a true classic with crystalline notes of white fruit and hawthorn. It is classy and has just the right persistent minerality – the true expression of its terroir.”


 Ox cheek, beech smoked, cauliflower, maple, carrot

“This tasty dish begs for a concentrated, gourmand red wine that is robust and hearty,” says Ahmet. “I suggest this quite original wine from Lebanon, Chateau Musar 2002. It is a blend of cabernet-sauvignon, carignan, cinsault  – the wine-making expression of a country where vines have been cultivated for 6,000 years – produced in the high altitude of the Bekaa valley. 

“Château Musar has a rich and dense tannin texture, with intense spiciness and baked fruit flavours. The wine’s freshness contrasts nicely with the texture of the braised ox cheek.”

By Daralyn Danns 

Bovey Castle, for more info visit www.boveycastle.com