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| The Royal Scotsman Courtesy of Orient Express |
The Scottish Highlands’ lush green terrain laced with
eruptions of purple rhododendrons and yellow broom interrupted by lochs
and framed by craggy peaks, whisked by as the Royal Scotsman made its
majestic way along the West Highland Line to Mallaig.
The tranquil waters of the magical Loch Lomond and the
distinctive shape of Ben Arthur took their place in our window then
faded into the distance as the train continued. So wild, so unspoilt. No wonder
it is renowned as one of the world’s most beautiful train journeys.
As the years have zipped by, when the heaving frenzy of
London on a hot summer’s day becomes too overwhelming, my mind often
flashes back to the clackety-clack of the train and that special time.
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Observation Lounge
Courtesy of Orient Express |
We had boarded the Royal Scotsman in Edinburgh to the skirl
of the bagpipes. We headed west, skirting Glasgow along the northern
bank of the Clyde to Craigendoran, the beginning of the West Highland Line, on
a journey that seemed to take us to the era when train travel was glamorous and
romantic.
My fellow passengers, 26 in all, came from all over the
world and from all walks of life. There were writers, ex-army
officers, lawyers and doctors, all seasoned travellers, all with tales to tell.
Dinner was rather a lavish affair and, just like in
an episode of Agatha Christie’s Poirot, (the Belgian detective) we all dressed
up to befit the occasion. The ice had already melted and the eclectic bunch of
people mingled like long-lost friends as we retired to the elegant
Edwardian-styled Observation Car for after-dinner drinks.
A local Highlander came on board to sing traditional
Scottish songs which we all joined in. It was more like being at a rather grand
house party than on a train.
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| Cosy state cabin Courtesy of Orient Express |
The Royal Scotsman’s compact and cosy state cabins with rich
wood panelling have been extremely well-designed and make use of every
centimetre of space. They all have en suite facilities – with shower – which
can be used 24/7. The train travels by day and rests by night, so sleeping is
easy.
Breakfast next morning was against the stunning backdrop of
Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest mountain. Could it get better? A walk on Morar
Sands, south of Mallaig and about a15-minute drive north from Arisaig, Britain’s
most westerly mainland railway station, managed to surpass it.
White sands fringed turquoise waters. In the
distance were the rocky peaks of the Isle of Skye’s Cuillin Mountains. In
between was a low-lying, flower-covered plain known as a machair. We were
about 235 miles from Edinburgh, but it seemed like a world away.
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| Morar Sands |
There were two other excursions on our route back to
Edinburgh. In the afternoon was a trip with Ray Owens, a local historian, to
the Glenfinnan Monument, at the head of Loch Shiel. The monument was built
in 1815 as a tribute to the clansmen who fought and died for Bonnie Prince
Charlie. The 21-arch viaduct here was used in the Harry Potter movies.
On the third day we stopped at Wemyss Bay (about 78
miles from Edinburgh) and visited Mount Stuart, a Victorian Gothic
mansion on the Isle of Bute, the ancestral home of the 3rd Marquess of Bute.
After being cosseted by the staff of the Royal Scotsman for
three days, being catapulted back into reality came as a shock to
the system. It sounds like a cliché, but this really was a trip of a
lifetime.
By Daralyn Danns
For more details of journeys on the Royal Scotsman visit
www.orient-express.com
