While many believe
that the Englishman Christopher Merret registered a recipe for a
sparkling wine in 1662, some 20 years before the French Benedictine monk, Dom
Pierre Pérignon is said to have made his discovery, it is the French that
turned the concept into the wine that we all associate with special occasions,
champagne. When it comes to sparklers, the elixir from France is hard to
beat.
You may have your
own favourite Maison de Champagne but ask a French person what theirs is and
frequently they will tell you that it is a small individual grower.
The advantages of
champagne de vigneron are that you know where the wine has come from. It is
made by the people who own the vineyards. It expresses a particular village or
vineyard which can make it rather more interesting than being a blend that is
representative of a house style that is made from grapes that come from a
variety of vineyards and vintages.
As the growers do
not usually spend money on marketing, they can present better value for the
consumer. The flavour of a grower wine can vary from year to year because of
the way it is made.
Wine aficionados
love grower champagnes. Since I first wrote about this subject a few years ago,
I have noticed this trend getting bigger and bigger.
Here are three that
I have liked.
Champagne Guy Larmandier, Cramant, Blanc de Blancs, Brut,
Grand Cru, £34.95, Berry Bros. & Rudd (bbr.com)
A classy number,
created from the chardonnay grape that is fresh yet creamy and soft on the
palate. Think peaches and pear with a smattering of lime and a hint of honey.
Easy to drink, this is excellent.
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier “Latitude” Extra Brut 1er
Cru, £32.95, Lea & Sandeman (leaandsandeman.co.uk)
Made from 100 per
cent chardonnay, this extra-brut champagne, from this small grower estate
exudes elegance. Drenched with fresh apple flavours laced with citrus enriched
with toasty tangs. Outstanding.
Herbert Beaufort Grand Cru Champagne, £33, Marks &
Spencer (marksandspencer.com)
Predominantly pinot noir, this fine-bubbled
gold coloured champagne is a cracker. Bursting with character this rich and
powerful oozes class. Will satisfy even the most discerning palates.
By Daralyn Danns
