Destination Beja, Alentejo, Portugal

Climbing up Beja’s Castle’s Keep was well worth the effort. Stretched out before me were endless plains of golden wheat punctuated by the occasional whitewashed house. As the sun bathed the picture-perfect landscape with a heartening glow, I took some time to savour my surroundings.

The castle, which has played an important part in defending Portugal’s borders and is now the Beja’s landmark, dates back to the Romans and, over the centuries, has been modified by its varying occupants. The Keep, arguably the most outstanding feature, said to be the highest in the Iberian Peninsula, was built for Dom Dinis, King of Portugal in the 13^th century.  

Beja’s Castle’s Keep

Beja, once called Pax Julia, was founded by Julius Caesar and was declared the regional capital. Renamed by the Moors, this city is saturated in history. Archaeological evidence shows that Beja was inhabited since the Bronze Age and probably the pace of life has not altered much since then. If delving into yesteryear is your bag, you will find lovely little churches such as the Santo Amaro which has some parts presumed to date back to the 6^th century as well as museums to enlighten you.  

Near to the castle are the cathedral and the spectacular Convent of Our Lady of Conception (Nossa Senhora da Conceição), where years ago nuns from Portugal’s noblest families concocted amazing types of sweets. Their legacy lives on and you can enjoy their confectionery made according to these ancient recipes in many restaurants. 

Decked out in carved wood and gold leaf

Beja-museu REG©TVB
Courtesy of  Turismo de Portugal

Decked out in carved wood and gold leaf, with cloisters decorated in beautiful centuries-old tiles - “azulejos”, this convent, now a museum, houses one of Portugal’s most important Visigothic collections. 

As I tried to find the castle I got lost wandering around a labyrinth of narrow cobbled medieval streets. But, I found plenty of helpful, happy people who pointed me in the right direction and I made some great discoveries such as Rua Dr Afonso Costa, known as the shopping street, which has a plethora of buildings to gaze at. Not to be missed is the double window, at number 38, adorned with traditional Islamic and Christian motifs. Although it was put in its current location at the end of the 19^th century, it is believed that it dates back to the 16^th century and comes from an old convent.   

In some ways you feel as if Beja has been cocooned in an ancient time warp. If it were not for some lovely boutiques and lively cafés, you could easily imagine that you have been transported back in time to when life was not a race against the clock. 

The real magic of Beja

My base was the Pousada de Beja, São Francisco, which started out life centuries ago as a Franciscan monastery and is now a luxury hotel run with easy charm. It manages to balance traditional features of the old building with 21^st century necessities. You can easily while away a couple of hours here exploring. It also has its own Gothic chapel 

The restaurant, once the refectory, with high vaulted ceilings, dishes up local cuisine that gives your taste buds a real treat whether you want a bowl of soup, or something more elaborate like the lamb or fish. And being in the Alentejo, renowned for its wines, you know that there were going to be some rather special tipples to relish.

A trip to Beja is like taking a glance into another world. It is a place where strangers say “Bom dia!” when they bump into you – a completely different culture experience from London.  It is also too easy to see why people like living here. There is a quality of life that is hard to imagine exists when you come from a big city. Magnificent in its simplicity, the past fuses with the future. And that is the real magic of Beja.

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there

TAP Portugal (0845 601 0932, www.flytap.com) flies from Manchester, London Heathrow and Gatwick to Lisbon up to 9 times a day. Return fares start at £116 including all taxes and surcharges. A great flying experience. Even in economy you will get complimentary meals and drinks. And you also get 23kg baggage allowance!

Pousada de Beja, São Francisco
Largo D. Nuno Álvares Pereira
7801-901, Beja, tel: (+351) 284 313 580
Double rooms including breakfast from approximately €90
For more info and promotional rates visit www.pousadas.pt

For more info on Alentejo visit Turismo do Alentejo, www.visitalentejo.pt/en

For more info on Portugal visit visitportugal.com/en