As the sun’s early
morning rays cast their rosy glow over the sandy-yellow cliffs, a myriad of
balloons adorned the sky. It was a scene that could have jumped straight out of
a Walt Disney fairytale movie. Instead it was a view from the terrace of my hotel
suite. When Mother Nature created Cappadocia, she truly created a spectacle.
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| Cappadocia Courtesy of Turkish Culture and Tourism Office |
The rocky landscape
of “The land of the beautiful horses”, as its name translates in Persian, was
shaped millions of years ago by eroded volcanic ash deposit called tuff. It is almost
has if you have landed on another planet rather than being bang in the middle
of Turkey.
Seeing for the first
time the fairy chimneys, which resemble columns topped with mushroom-shaped
hats, punctuating the sky was so jaw-dropping that it was easy to imagine that
somebody had created them especially to attract tourists.
This fairytale land,
reputedly, in the second century, became a refuge for persecuted Christians who
carved caves in the cliffs and the chimneys.
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| The fairy chimneys |
At Göreme Open Air
Museum, one of the region’s most popular attractions, I explored caves that
were thousands of years-old. Many had once been homes to monks and
others had been churches carved out of rock with walls decorated with murals
depicting the life of Jesus and several saints.
A visit to an
underground city is a must on any tourist’s itinerary, that is unless you
suffer from claustrophobia. It is not certain who originally built these
intricate mazes that go on for miles deep under the earth, but many claim to go
back as far as the 4th century. Over time, these safe havens used by
entire communities sheltering from conquering tribes grew.
Exploring the low, narrow sloping passages that I encountered at Kaymakli
underground city was an experience like no other. There was a small
hole, which in times gone by was covered by a heavy stone that they rolled back
when they wanted to enter or leave, which was the entrance to another world. The city, complete with
ventilation systems, areas for washing and cooking as well as storage and
a church, consists of eight floors, four are open to the public.
Cappadocia is a
place where tourism collides with traditionalism and Faruk, my wonderful guide,
wanted to show me a part of the latter. So it was off to Avanos, renowned for
pottery-making for thousands of years, thanks to the red clay which comes from
the banks of the Kizilirmak (Red River) that flows through the heart of the
town. There is a lovely statue of a potter that stands in the main square. You
can see items being made and you can have a go yourself.
When Faruk, told me
he wanted to take me to Pigeon Valley, my heart sank. I have enough trouble
getting rid of them from my balcony in London. Pigeons, to the ancient people
who inhabited this region were valuable as both food and fertiliser. I have to
admit the pigeon houses and the strange shape of the rocks that they were
carved into make a phantasmagorical vision.
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| The Taskonaklar Rocky Palace |
Climbing up Uçhisar
Castle, said to be Cappadocia’s highest fairy chimney and a fortress in the
Byzantine and Ottoman periods, has to be the perfect spot to watch the sun set.
These cave dwellings
are not only museums, many have recently been turned into luxury boutique
hotels and staying in one is part of the “travel experience”. The Taskonaklar
Rocky Palace in Uçhisar, was my home for four nights. Once centuries-old
village houses and caves, this hotel achieves the wow factor not with glitz and
glamour but with its own natural beauty and charm. Time and effort has been put
into the décor with antique furniture, handmade carpets and working fireplaces
interspersed with mod cons.
It is a family operation, so expect to have lashings of Turkish hospitality served up along with a scrumptious buffet breakfast. You should try dinner as all the food is bought in accordance with your request.
Sadiye, the manager and Valeria, who is responsible for guest relations, and seems to be doing almost everything else in the hotel as well, are the soul of the place. They turn a stay into a lifetime memory.
It is a family operation, so expect to have lashings of Turkish hospitality served up along with a scrumptious buffet breakfast. You should try dinner as all the food is bought in accordance with your request.
Sadiye, the manager and Valeria, who is responsible for guest relations, and seems to be doing almost everything else in the hotel as well, are the soul of the place. They turn a stay into a lifetime memory.
Valerie suggested
that I tried some of the region's wines. Turkey has been making wines
for over 4,000 years and the best is reputedly from Cappadocia. Sitting with a
glass of crisp Kocabag Emir, a rather delicious white, I sat in the garden
mesmerised by the ever-changing colours of the landscape below. A blend of informal sophistication and romantic seclusion, this is a place that stops you
in your tracks.
By Daralyn Danns
Getting there
easyJet
(www.easyjet.com) lives up to its name. It offers a good and affordable service
from London Luton to Istanbul - Sabiha Gökçen (www.easyjet.com). The online
check-in system means less time queuing. Boarding was effortless. Seats are
assigned. The crew were helpful and pleasant. Low cost at its best!
Pegasus Airlines
(www.flypgs.com) has flights from Sabiha Gökçen to Kayseri. Arrange
transportation with your hotel as it is about an hour’s drive to Uçhisar
I stayed at the
amazing Taskonaklar Rocky Palace, Uçhisar, Nevsehir, a member of Great Hotels
of the World collection ( www.ghotw.com)
For more information about Turkey as well as arranging sightseeing tours and guides visit the Turkish Culture and Tourism Office (www.gototurkey.co.uk)
For more information about Turkey as well as arranging sightseeing tours and guides visit the Turkish Culture and Tourism Office (www.gototurkey.co.uk)
