With buildings that tell a story of days gone by and a crunch of cutting-edge
architecture, Basel fuses history and the contemporary edginess
of the future with style and panache.
The cultural capital of Switzerland, a label
this city wears so well, is as intoxicating as sipping a glass of good
champagne. After a few hours you can quickly immerse yourself into the
leisurely rhythm of Basel’s high quality lifestyle.
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Aerial view of Basel
© Basel Tourismus
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Divided and defined by the Rhine, the
area has passed through the hands of the Celts and Romans. But, it was not
until AD374 that Basilia (Basel) first appeared in records. In 1460
Switzerland’s first university was established here. In the time of the Dutch
humanist scholar Erasmus, this city also became a centre of book printing and
paper production.
During the Reformation, Basel became a centre for
silk weaving and dying. The seeds were starting to be sown for
industrialisation. Today’s Basel, straddling the borders of France, Germany and
Switzerland, has become a magnet for trade fairs as well as a hub for life
sciences and the pharmaceutical industry. And, as this is Switzerland, there
are many key players from the world of finance to be found here.
The birth place of tennis ace Roger
Federer is also renowned for its artistic flair having a great collection of
buildings designed by international architects. The head office of the renowned Herzog
& de Meuron are here.
(The firm was part of the collaboration that worked on the design of Beijing’s
2008 main Olympic National Stadium known as the Bird’s Nest.) The new Roche
building that punches the sky, adding a new dimension to Basel’s skyline, has
been designed by this dynamic firm.
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Basel Cathedral
© Andreas Gerth
Courtesy Basel Tourismus |
I can’t think of anywhere in the
world that I have been where hospitals are on a guided tour of architecture,
but here they are proud to show off the Children’s Hospital, an incredible
construction and the University Hospital which has lovely gardens to stroll
through.
On a hot summer’s afternoon, I sauntered along the banks of the Rhine.
The river was ablaze with flashes of colour created by a clever gadget
called a Basel “Wickelfisch”. This watertight fish-shaped bathing sack, which
you take with you while swimming, keeps your belongings dry. There is not
problem here of what to do with your clothes while taking a dip to cool off.
After passing rows of delightful
medieval houses, I arrived in St Alban-Vorstadt and discovered the 13th-century
town gate, St Alban Tor. After relaxing in the pretty garden which surrounds
it, I headed to the Basel Papiermũhler, a working museum for the paper and
printing sectors.
This tourist-friendly compact city is easy to travel around. I had my
Mobility Ticket, issued by my hotel, which gives you free transport during your
stay. So when my feet got weary, I hopped on a tram. People here are warm and
welcoming and are only too willing to lend a helping hand with directions.
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Fasnachtsbrunnen Jean Tinguely
©Standortmarketing Basel
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Basel maybe a small city but it is a
powerhouse of top-notch art galleries, ancient landmarks and monuments. The red
sandstone walls of Basel Cathedral, parts of which date back to the 12th
century, along with the twin towers and multi-coloured roof tiles make a rather
special sight.
From the observation platform (Pfalz)
behind this Romanesque and Gothic cathedral you have an amazing view of the Old
Town and the Rhine. In the far distance you can see the Black Forest and Vosges
mountains.
The Old Town is reputedly one of
Europe’s best preserved and most stunning. Cobbled streets are lined with
buildings offering a cornucopia of architecture. Behind narrow alleyways lay
hidden squares and houses with intimate courtyards. Cute little shops beg you
to enter.
Fountains punctuate the city – there are
approximately 180 of them. The Tinguely Fashnachsbrunnen, created by the Swiss
sculptor Jean Tinguely, is arguably the most outstanding, albeit it is the only
one that you cannot drink from.
Basel’s beating heart is the Markplatz
home to the 16th century City Hall. Colourful old murals line the
walls of the courtyard. Nearby is the bustling food and flower market which is
open daily. You cannot leave town without trying Basler Läckerli. These spicy
biscuits with hints of honey, nuts, orange and lemon peel are scrumptious.
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| The old and the new |
The art gallery to put on your
must-see list is the Foundation Beyeler designed by Renzo Piano One of the most
visited museums in Switzerland, it is set in beautiful grounds and plays host
to approximately 250 contemporary works of art and sculptures.
I managed to catch Marlene Dumas:
The Image As Burden exhibition which shows the artist’s work from the mid-1970s
to present day. The South African is one of the most highly-rated painters in
modern art. Her starting point may usually be a photograph but her
interpretation is individual and certainly provocative. As well as exhibitions,
there is also interesting permanent collection to cast your eye over.
After feasting on the culture, enjoy the
city’s culinary prowess. Find bars in Kleinbasel, which is across the river
from the Old Town or indulge yourself at the legendary two-stared Michelin
restaurant the Cheval Blanc at the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois or discover lots
of other delightful haunts in the city.
Basel is a tonic. Reviving and
stimulating spiced with beauty and charm.
By Daralyn Danns
Getting there
British Airways currently flies from London City to Zurich up to four
times a day. Each-way hand baggage only fares are available from £69 (based on
a return hand baggage only fare) and are available
to book on www.ba.com/londoncity
(In addition BA has services from
Heathrow with connections also available from across the UK and Ireland.)
All British Airways fares include online check-in 24 hours before
departure, complimentary refreshments and drinks on board and no debit card
charges
Customers have a quick and easy journey
through the Docklands airport, with hand baggage it takes just 15 minutes to
get from kerbside to airside
BA makes flying an enjoyable
experience!
Train fares from Zurich to Basel
start at £40 standard class return. For bookings visit www.voyages-sncf.com or phone 0844 848 5848 or call into the Voyages-sncf Travel
Centre, 193 Piccadilly, London W1J 9EU
Travelling by train is easy in Switzerland. Good frequency trains
are punctual and altogether a pleasant experience
I stayed at Grand Hotel Les Trois
Rois (www.lestroisrois.com).
The chicest address in the city. You will be hard-pressed to find fault here. It
is the epitome of excellence
For more information on Basel
visit www.basel.com/en
